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Mendi Warrior's Adeptus Titanicus project log

Adeptus Titanicus Warlord Reaver

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390 replies to this topic

#51
Fajita Fan

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I just realized how much easier it is to glue in Knight arm sockets without the top armor piece on there...



#52
Mendi Warrior

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Absolutely, I left the carapaces unglued so far. Just be watchful when gluing the heavy stubber or melta to the carapace as there is not a lot of room if you want to position them nicely and be able to remove the carapace afterwards for painting (dry fit, as for every AT pieces, helps)


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#53
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And my hands shake as I try to jam that little stubber in, its kinda worrying.

#54
Mendi Warrior

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this also happens sometimes when I'm too tired or too stressed, just leave it for later, maybe with a pair of pliers to improve control on the tiny bits

 

I use one for the cables of the reaver. I encountered a little issue when adding them to my latest reaver. I went for the right leg positioned with an angle slightly over 90°, as if resting on a rock or small building, with the other leg relatively straight. The piston on the back gave me the maximum angle between the leg and foot, I checked the armour plates, all fine. So I thought "cool, I like it".

 

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Then today I added the cables and found out they were a tad too short. I simply added electric wire to lengthen the cables. I originally wanted to link both together

 

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but eventually I went for two separate ones as that proved a lot easier to position. The electric wire has a rather smooth finish when compared to the cable but as it is only visible from below and on a couple of millimeters I think it will be alright once painted. Oh, and bending and twisting the plastic cables I broke one and had to glue it back together too. 

 

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#55
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Nice!  That's a good idea joining two buildings like that, much easier than what I tried to do...


Edited by Fajita Fan, 05 November 2018 - 10:43 PM.


#56
Mendi Warrior

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Oh, that is just a mock up, not planning on actually joining them like that but that could definitely work (adding debris and stuff)


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#57
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It’s an easier way to make a building that’s being stepped on, like its collapsing in on itself.

#58
Mendi Warrior

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True, I hadn't thought of that, that is a great idea

 

I added a couple of magnets to my warlords, I should have done it earlier but I delayed it hoping for more info on the additional weapons, eventually I decided to go ahead with some anyway

 

So I started adding 4x1mm magnets for magnetising the heads, I drilled so as to have at least 1mm depth to fix the magnet, I didn't drilled through as the plastic there is sufficiently thick.

 

Once this was done I proceeded with the legs - torso joint.

 

As you can see in the pics I haven't glued the torso's base (the part with the railings) yet, it definitely helps for achieving what I wanted. I took a couple of measures to determine how best to do it. First step there was to insert 1mm thick plasticard (measuring 17x13mm) to have a base on which to glue the magnet for the torso (see picture).

 

Then I added a second 1mm layer of plasticard on which I glued a 4x1mm magnet. This leaves about 3mm from the magnet to the edge of the torso. The thickness of the torso's base is about 3mm too. And this allows to arrive nicely at the same level as the edge of the upper part of the "pelvis".

 

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As the "pelvis" is hollow, I filled it with some insulation foamboard to which I glued a little piece of plasticard (1mm thickness) on which I glued a 4x1mm magnet. The magnet should not be higher than the edge (if it is, the insulation foamboard can be compressed a little bit).

 

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The 4x1mm magnets are sufficient imho, especially if you don't plan to suspend your warlord upside down and shake it. I would probably not go for smaller ones.


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#59
Fajita Fan

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I strongly considered magnetizing my Warlord torsos like that and it's still possible given they're separate for painting.  A good place to do it would've been under the gankplank and on either side of the pelvis but I've already glued that.



#60
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Nice to see some progress on your Warlord. One thing I've found interesting is the multiple different ways Fraters magnetise their Titans.

Was there a reason you chose 4mm over 5 mm?

Keep up the good work.

Dallo

ETL_2014_Banner_V2_03B_Custos_Fidei.jpg 

So yeah, long story short.

Dallo <- Blame that guy.

  Obscura, on 08 Mar 2016 

 

 


#61
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Good progress there Mendi - the Warlords magenitzation looks good. And once more the Reaver legs present problems. Truth being said, if you go for very dynamic poses it’s bound to create some inconsistneces. These are supposed to be huge machines so go for dynamic posing at your risk! I faced similar issues with the Warlord...:rolleyes:

#62
Mendi Warrior

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Thanks guys

 

No particular reason for using 4x1mm magnets over 5x1mm ones other than having more 4x1mm magnets available than 5x1mm ones and saving the remaining 5x1mm ones for the upcoming additional warlord weapons. They do the job and once the legs are painted the thin coat of paint adds some thickness which makes it fit tighter.

 

Just put together a couple pics to help visualize the measures I was talking about. Inside of the torso you ave about 6mm between the edge and the interior of the recesses foreseen to fix the small lateral armour plates on the torso (see steps 28 - 29). I took a pic of step 17 of the instructions as this was much quicker than anything else (especially with the torsos being assembled).

 

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If I am to build an additional warlord, I'll also prepare the various components for adding magnets before assembling (when individual components are concerned) or right after completing a specific sub-assembly (e.g. the weapon support parts) like I did for my latest 2 reavers.

 

Dynamic posing is great but there are quite a few constraints to take into account. And you'll learn them by doing or by reading what others experienced. Assembling the reaver's legs properly is probably the sub-assembly I spent the most time on, constantly checking the instructions, dry-fitting, checking the 360° view on GW website, …

 

Based on what I already experienced and saw in other posts or elsewhere I put together a quick visual help. Please review it and let me know if there are errors or things that are unclear. Again, checking the instructions, dry fitting and checking the 360° view on GW website are a good help. I hope this will be useful.

 

gallery_116407_14938_47026.jpg


Edited by Mendi Warrior, 11 November 2018 - 02:18 PM.

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#63
Brother Dallo

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I think your idiot proof guide for Reaver legs will prove very useful in future Reaver builds.

Thanks for taking the time to put it together.

Dallo

ETL_2014_Banner_V2_03B_Custos_Fidei.jpg 

So yeah, long story short.

Dallo <- Blame that guy.

  Obscura, on 08 Mar 2016 

 

 


#64
Mendi Warrior

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I was forgetting about the front and back pistons which are very important constraints. Also, don't forget the legs' armour plates. Dry fitting them is key to avoid bad surprises.

 

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I definitely hope it will be helpful, again please review and let me know if there are mistakes or things that are unclear.


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#65
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This is indeed very helpful. And thorough... In fact one of the issues I experienced with the Warlord, was the leg pistons that run outside their guides due to the positioning of the lower leg. And it didn't seem all that dynamic a pose to begin with which makes think there is little tolerance on the posing...

 

Now I can't wait to start on my Reavers - thanks man! :D



#66
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Because why just play a game when you can lose your entire soul to it!

 

I applaud everything on this blog and look forward to it continuing.


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#67
Chaeron

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Really helpful guides Mendi Warrior - thanks for those!


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#68
Mendi Warrior

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Thanks guys.

 

I think the new weapons' sprue for the warlord answers my questions for magnetizing the weapons. A 5x1mm magnet at the top of the "arm" piece should be sufficient, no need to magnetize at the joint between the "arm" and the weapon (unless of course you want to switch them from right to left and vice-versa at will). Still debating doing it or not biggrin.png


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#69
RipOffProductions

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Thanks guys.

 

I think the new weapons' sprue for the warlord answers my questions for magnetizing the weapons. A 5x1mm magnet at the top of the "arm" piece should be sufficient, no need to magnetize at the joint between the "arm" and the weapon (unless of course you want to switch them from right to left and vice-versa at will). Still debating doing it or not biggrin.png

well, so far every arm weapon has come in sets of two on the sprue, except the power claw, but that thing would likely require a lot of work with vary tiny magnets to make reversible, what with the thumb and any other little bits that help distinguish the left or right handedness of the claw.



#70
Chaeron

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Thanks guys.

 

I think the new weapons' sprue for the warlord answers my questions for magnetizing the weapons. A 5x1mm magnet at the top of the "arm" piece should be sufficient, no need to magnetize at the joint between the "arm" and the weapon (unless of course you want to switch them from right to left and vice-versa at will). Still debating doing it or not biggrin.png

well, so far every arm weapon has come in sets of two on the sprue, except the power claw, but that thing would likely require a lot of work with vary tiny magnets to make reversible, what with the thumb and any other little bits that help distinguish the left or right handedness of the claw.

 

 

That's true - you might be able to make that work with a pipecleaner/paperclip, so it could be bent back and forth to the correct position, but appreciate that isn't ideal. A ball magnet to replace the bottom of the thumb would most likely be the best option if that was a serious thought - I think it'd be great!


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#71
Mendi Warrior

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For the reaver I have thought about magnetising the power fist at each joint but that would indeed be a lot of work. Still debating doing it or not, maybe I'll do it for one or two, but most likely not for each and every one.

 

For the arioch claw, 1x1mm magnets for the fingers/claws could probably do the trick. Probably only the thumb is absolutely required if you go that road.

 

The cables would likely be the trickiest. I thought about maybe using electric wire (I have leftovers from when I refurbished my apartment) but they are smooth. Idea is to drill holes into th carapace/body where the cables go, as it is typically hollow just have the wire length's long enough for the most extended pose.

 

Anyway, so far this remains theoretical ideas.


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#72
Sandlemad

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That guide is wonderful, thank you Mendi Warrior. My paralysing fear of assembling these reavers has something to work with now.



#73
Mendi Warrior

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Thanks a lot. Seeing how many of us at some point struggle with assembling the legs it seemed a good idea to share this.


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#74
Mendi Warrior

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A quick addition to my terrain, modular, work-in-progress, using foamboard to save a few civitas imperialis components, with details to add

 

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A while ago I posted a little teaser of a Cities of Death component I cut into several pieces. So, what did I do with these? I added some foamboard to fill in the aquila part. Then I took some cardboard and drew many lines after taking some measures.

 

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I then glued the aquila, the top of the "wings" and the tail into place, and added triangles of cardboard to start building the structure.

 

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It remained so for a couple of days until I figured out a solution for the structure. I built the left and right sides of the torso in cardboard, in a similar way to the wings.

 

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Then again inspiration took a few days to arrive, and after gluing the torso and wings, I finally covered them with coffee stirrers.

 

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#75
Chaeron

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Simply brilliant Mendi Warrior - I love the Aquila. Fantastic work!


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