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T̶w̶o̶ Three legios and a knight household


Fajita Fan

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My 30k force is a bunch of Iron Warriors so I’m trying 3D print some 130% scale epic Rhinos and a modified Shadowsword to be the Tormentor. The challenge will be painting such a tiny thing the same way I paint the full size one.

 

My full size Tormentor is slowly being built as I put LEDs in the headlights, volcano cannon, and void shield generators.

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You mean to create the illusion they're billowing?

 

 

Tormentor should be ready to try printing next week, I only get one file a week at work and I try to put a bunch of stuff on one build plate at a time. 

 

Screenshot 2018 11 03 At 11.39.30 AM

 
 
The Land Raider file I'm using said to scale it up 130% for AT but it came out HUGE relative to the Shadowsword and Rhinos which I upscaled.  I just eyeballed it but it still seems pretty tall, I don't know but we'll see next week.  I just love the idea of printing a tiny Tormentor and having the full sized one for Perturabo.  
 

Screenshot 2018 11 03 At 1.14.01 PM

 

Edited by Fajita Fan
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The banners look impressive for sure... Now it may be just me, but they do look a bit on the large side... I think it may be worth doing a tad smaller sizes? If it is possible that is, the current ones are still fine - no question about it...

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I need to get some progress in today but I ordered some Folk Art color shift paint that’s meant to brush on. It’s more a fancy metallic effect rather than a true color shift but I don’t have an airbrush to use the fancy stuff I’ve seen online.

 

I found some Testor’s color shift rattle cans but they were $9 for 3oz. Rustoleoum makes color shift paint as well but I’ve already primed my armor white and those pigments work better on a black base. I was trying to come up with something for my loyalist legio that would look a little different so I ordered the cheaper brush on stuff to play with. I got aqua, blue, and blue/violet so this might be something to try on Alpha Legion.

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Laid down some Ulthuan Gray on a few armor panels I primed white and I'm happy with the coverage, progress NEEDS to be made on these Warlords.

 

The color shifting paint I wanted to try is NOT coming out well on the test models I have.

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I've used some of those previously - and have worked fantastically well through the airbrush (and smaller 'touch-ups' of errors by brush thereafter). What are you currently using? For instance, the advice with these was to apply this over a gloss black coat - so I'd done that as the undercoat and worked from there - but it might be what you're using is entirely different?

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It’ll be awhile till I have a setup where I can get an airbrush sadly, I saw the greenstuffworld paints but I was experimenting with a cheaper brush on alternative.

 

I used Vallejo dark, dark gray primer but it’s the body of this stuff that’s just killing me here.

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/766165.page#10231753

 

Squirting some out and trying to move it around it feels like white PVA glue, you can stretch it with the brush. I’ve tried thinning it a little at a time and it just breaks apart into a wash. The only thing I haven’t tried is GW’s medium, I’ll give that a shot tonight. I ordered several different colors and I’ve got a few more colors arriving today.

 

I had really hoped the aqua and blue would work out, the aqua for Alpha Legion and the blue for maybe Astorum armor panels. As it is this stuff is more like glitter glue wash than acrylic paint.

https://www.amazon.com/FolkArt-Acrylic-Assorted-Colors-5132/dp/B072L7C4WD/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542455923&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=folk%2Bart%2Bcolor%2Bshift%2Bpaint&dpPl=1&dpID=41j3Diw4ZNL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

 

I could try ordering some gloss black primer but at this point I think it either needs to go over a similar colored base coat or not at all.

Edited by Fajita Fan
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Hmm, I did wonder whether it might be something other than an acrylic base, as some will need a more specialised thinning agent. I'd try with Lahmian Medium and see whether that works - I think if you've tried water already and it has had that effect, you'll definitely want either that medium or another company's thinners. I use Vallejo's thinner/flow improver when airbrushing generally, but would assume that might work for the same purpose and what you'd be using it for.

 

Another option could be to work it up to a more metallic finish before application: for the stuff I'm going to do in candy red, intention is to go black spray, Leadbelcher or equivalent, then a bright zenithal metallic coat before that - which could work with this?

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I just wanted something cool for the big broad shoulder and knee plates on my Astorum titans and I thought the color shifting blue and yellow looked neat.  Water turns this stuff into watery glitter and Vallejo glaze medium doesn't thin it so much as stretch it - it's weird.  It's like the medium body to this stuff is either really different, really old, or just not meant to work on plastic but more for canvas or something.  

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The last thing I'd recommend is really shaking it, and if it doesn't have an agitator ball or something similar in - to pop one in to try and mix the pigment up. The GreenStuffWorld ones come with one in anyway, and thoroughly shaking for a couple of minutes is perfect for them - so that's the last thing I can think of that might help! I use small glass beads for my standard paints, but probably a really small bit of sprue would be good - or something similar. I know I think through what layers I'd put down first before using that sort of paint, so it may just be it isn't adhering to whatever is on the surface currently: could try it over a gloss varnish/gloss wash too?

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Wonky work schedule this week because of the holiday so I had some time this morning to put some gold on my white armor.  I need to put some leadbelcher on the back and on the structure frame there before I shade the whole thing.  

 

For shading my gold I had thought I'd do some thinned Agarax rather than Reikland so it turns a browner gold before highlighting. I've also wanted to try some thinned yellow glaze over gold to see what happens but I'll need a test model. 

 

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I lost my gold test models when I cleaned off my table last time [lesson: never clean your table] so I need to prime and paint a couple more to test the look.  I have plenty of extra bits on sprues for that task and plenty of Vallejo primer I can brush on.  

 

Reikland gives a warmer, redder gold - especially the gloss which is what that's meant for.  Brown gives a deeper, older gold which I think is more appropriate for a 100' tall titan.  Some people use a purple wash to give it a duller, bronzey look and that can look cool but I haven't seen it done with the current violet shade.  Either way it's going to get highlighted so I'm not sure it matters too much.

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Messed around with google’s English to Latin translator and came up with some Gothic titan names. Legio Aurora believes the Warmaster represents a new age for humanity slipping the bonds of the False Emperor’s enslavement and embrace our greater destiny through the arcane technologies he kept from us [the scrapcode].

 

Illuminatum Bellum - illuminated war

 

Praelitor Veritas - true warrior

 

Nocte Fugatrix - night banisher

 

Prima Lux - first light

 

Pertinax Pugnus - uncompromising fist

 

Lexis Incendium - burning word

 

Acies Terminatus - terminator’s edge [a terminator is the leading edge of dawn’s light across a planet’s surface that’s visible from space]

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