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[Captain Caine 24th]

Working on some Blood Angel Captains with jump packs. 

 

Parts list: Stormcast Relictor Halo, Sanguinary Guard Head, jump pack and wings, Dark Angel's Hammer, Custodes Shield, Dragonforge white metal cable, green stuff scrolls, armorum cherub, empire standard/general cherub, Dark imperium intercessor body, vanguard vet arms.
 

If I had a better hammer I'd use it, but I've just got a couple thunder hammers about. I think the grey knight one-handed hammer is the most visually appealing. I'm not concerned about primaris size in game play, i just like the way it looks. The base is really a bit tall. This is the first time i've tried some sharp corners on cork basing. I wanted to try to get a city ruins feel to it, not just rocks. Making scrolls out of green stuff was easier than I thought. The question is whether I add more. I think I want to try some water effects...

 

Paints: Vallejo Metal gold with 91% isypropyl thinned easily. Really nice four color gold set off of amazon. It dries really fast so pouring it in a disposable cup to use with brush painting is necessary. I like the colors, but using citadel washes was unusually difficult, and changed the complexion entirely. Not sure on what I'll do next. Using my Testors dull coat was a really bad idea in that it reacted with the vallejo metal color like a thinner. So I ended up repainting and using a non-alcohol based protective coat (pledge future floor finish--love that stuff). So I think there's a lot of promise in these gold colors, I just need to learn to use them more. I also used a badger 105 to spray it and it worked perfectly fine. The other paint techniques I want to work on are flesh tones and scroll work. All can be improved.

 

 

Edited by Captain Caine 24th, 23 February 2019 - 02:42 PM.

[Captain Caine 24th]

The death company are coming along. I find I don't have the patience for edge highlighting. I'm not getting the narrow or clean edges. I suspect the brush size and correctly thinned paint are two issues. It'll take a lot more practice. 

I tried blending from Fenrisan grey to ulthuan grey to P3 pure white. Blending feels less tedious than edge highlighting.

I had a lot of fun making the scrolls, and attempting writing on the scrolls. Time to figure out water effects on the base.

[Bjorn Firewalker]

You're making good progress. The golden armored Assault Marine (Primaris Dante?) looks GREAT.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Thanks. He's just a captain, just under 130 points. Though the paint job on my actual Dante is about 20 years old and could use an update.

 

Work continues on the rubble bases today. I'm just using cork and styrene strips to make i-beams. I'd like to add a bit more variety to them. I'd thought about small plastic gears or something. Cheap watch parts are a bit too small. Maybe some wire mesh or some kind of industrial bits.

I did the bases black, then drybrushed grey and white in successively lighter layers. I'm also happy with cheap craft paint on basing and terrain. <$1 for 2oz black, grey, and white is much better than using expensive citadel paints up. Saving a bit of money where possible... just like Lahmian medium at $4.99 for less than an ounce versus Pledge Future Floor Finish for about $3 for 27 ounces.

Doing some magnetizing on the bases and getting some more banners/streamers/scrolls made up. 

 

Lesson: (1) don't leave green stuff on cutting mat as it adds texture...

My goal is to watch some videos on feathering, glazing, and blending this week.

All can be improved.

 

 

Edited by Captain Caine 24th, 13 February 2019 - 01:32 PM.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Alright so since Jan 1: 5 death company with better bases, a bit of improved layering, and a protective clear coat. Working from dark brown to an off white in layers really shows up a lot better on skulls and clothes. I tried edge highlighting and an zenithal with dark grey, but wasn't thrilled with either result. I've still got piles of death company that need work. The 2 new smash captains are good enough, for now. The white brushwork didn't come out the way I'd hoped. 

 

Taking a break from blood angels, I experimented with my Agripinaa mechanicus. 

Lessons: (1) clear protective coat necessary for masking; (2) give the clear coat time to set/dry properly (don't move too quick); (3) when using tamiya masking tape, stick the tape to a hard surface a few times to reduce it's stickiness so that it is much easier to pull off the model; (4) experiments are necessary in painting. Question: how to get tape to stick to model without any gaps or creases for airbrushing nice lines...

 

Experiments on water effects: realistic water is easy to use for bases, but for more  detailed or diorama effects I think a 2-part clear resin is the way to go. Realistic water dries to a flexible rubbery feel. Resin is hard as a stone. Shallow layers appear required for both. Adding coloring seems to be best with the colors sold by the specific manufacturer... but what color do I want for my models? 

 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Goals: (1) Time - I got a little bit of painting in during the past two nights on my Kastellans. I think at the initial stages of coming out of a hobby hiatus, any amount of time is good. Too much time or too much repetition is an easy way to make it feel like work and burn out; (2) Better painting - I watched a couple of videos on feathering and wetblending last night techniques last night. The key take-aways seem to be to having patience in not seeing immediate results and dedicating the work to get experience (like just about anything in life).

 

I did get a paint shelf to get organized (been in the hobby with some breaks since 1996, and I'm only doing this now?). This is the 45 paint set (for 34mm diameter paints--as I use tamiya, GW, vallejo, etc.). I got it off Etsy. I've heard cheap nail polish racks work too.

 

So, earlier in January I ran some tests on water effects. As I'm getting some models close to finished, it's time to apply the experiments. I see people use all sorts of two-part epoxies for modeling, but I wasn't sure what to use. Realistic Water, from Woodland Scenics is about $24 and it's easy to use as there is no mixing. However, it doesn't harden--after it sets it remains soft and rubbery. I'm fine with this on most applications on basing as I'm looking at making small mud puddles or filling craters or tank tracks. In comparison a two part resin hardens to the extent you can make a dinning room table out of it. Resin, in applying multiple shallow layers, can also create much deeper effects (e.g. maybe I can make a skeleton or something submerged in the resin. So, here we go. I found this at Hobby Lobby (similar at Michael's).

 

Contrary to many internet commentators I found that coloring using many different paints did not ultimately ruin the setting/hardening process (the idea being that acrylic paints might interrupt the chemical reaction in the two-part resin). I also found that color should be added very slowly as it adds up very quickly and transparency can be lost.

 

I liked the Tamiya for my Krieg trench bases as it contrasts with the dark earth colored mud. But I'm not certain yet. 

GW paint actually worked fine, but this color was not quite what I was looking for. My krieg bases are already dark.

I think this GW paint being very bright might be cool for a toxic spill... maybe with my Agrippina urban rubble bases to add a bit of color? I don't know maybe it'd work for my krieg too but this might look like a cartoon instead of grim and dark...

A key point I discovered was that bubbles can be mitigated with setting the mixture in a container of hot water (not boiling) and stirring very, very slowly. This isn't an issue so much if the added coloring will increase opacity, or render the water effect not transparent. 

 

Ultimately the most important thing was to be extremely precise in the resin mixture, or hardening won't work. I used measuring cups going a tablespoon at a time. Also, the mixture must be mixed thoroughly, which is very painful when you have to mix slowly. However, hot water mitigates a great deal of bubbles (of course being careful not to get water in the mix).

 

Goals: (1) put the resin experiments into practice; (2) keep watching more videos on painting; (3) practice painting, even if it does look golden demon quality--get it done! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Captain Caine 24th, 15 February 2019 - 01:49 PM.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Modeling Progress: Getting together 1 more smash captain. I haven't decided yet on all the parts, but kataphron servitor arms on the cherub might set the 40k mood a bit better. I finally broke down and got some scourges' wings. I like the detail and shape on them a lot. I'm not decided yet on the marine body/head.

 

Tools: My flush cutters died on me after many years of heavy use. The GW sprue cutters are fine but these are half the price. Don't use then to cut paper clips or thicker metal. Interestingly I did find that model railroaders have a heavy duty flush cutter for cutting the rails. I'm curious about these. I saw them on ebay for about $22. It might be worth looking into if they can cut more than plastic with ease.

 

Goals: I'm too far behind for Adepticon and don't have space in the apartment to get a good display board going. I've got the day off though. Any progress is good. I watched videos: TableTop Minions wetblending and IDICBeer40k on feathering.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Transport: If I'm working on painting better, I can't just let all the models get chipped and waste the hard work. I've tried a few foam cases but never fully committed. I tend to make a lot of conversions and oddly shaped miniatures don't fit well into uniform spaces. The cost is also astronomical. In the past I tried to make my own case but it never really worked out. I tried using mdf board, sheet metal and plastic tubs. The results were ok, but there were still design problems. It was heavy and didn't save that much space. I didn't like sheet metal burrs being a risk.

 

Conceivably if i had a 3d printer brackets and trays could be made to seat/slot metal sheets perfectly in a modular storage system. Adjustable height would be really great. But, I don't have that printer or the technical know-how of CAD. And, I don't feel like spending $200 per army case. So, on to my Mark II.

 

The Sterilite plastic storage here is about $3-5 per box, the 12x18" 26 gauge sheet metal is about $5, and the hot glue is about $7 with the gun. Metal sheers were $34. I'm really happy about saving roughly 40-50% space. The hot glue holds to steel much better than I thought it would. The metal sheers are not at all a perfect cut, but it's reasonably close. Cheap hand nibblers might offer more control but it's very time consuming. Regardless, the sharp edges can be dealt with by hot glue and styrene strips (which is just what I happened to have about the house). It may not be clean or precise, but this is a big improvement for storing my models and is very cheap. I like that these storage bins are stack-able. I don't have too much faith in the latches, so the covers would definitely need to be secured during movement.

 

I've got to get back to painting some more Krieg...

[Captain Caine 24th]

Krieg Recap & Next Project. Turning back to Krieg, it's time to get some models finished. In November of last year I was able to get a good amount of Krieg painted up, but the bases need work. I've been using vallejo mud effects and styrene for wooden planks. A bit of gloss or satin makes the mud appear more wet. The Secret Weapon bases are recessed a bit for some water effects. They are expensive, but it's time to see if they are worth it.

Some wine corks helped me fill out the gun emplacement.

I'm using Value Gear Details Stowage to help fill out the heavy weapons bases. GW munitions containers didn't quite fit the bases well.  

I'm not sure how dark I want the base color as I'll be adding water effects on top, about ankle deep. I suppose it's time to put up or shut up on water effects... I'm nervous I'm about to ruin a very expensive model.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Krieg Revisited. I'm working on some bases to get some death riders ready to go. Not sure that they'll see time on the battlefield, but I think they have some good rules. Anyway, I first experimented with water effects and waywatcher green glaze at the end of last year. I thought maybe a toxic mud battlefield might work out. I still haven't figured it out. 

Flames of war and AIM weathering powders to get some rust going. I've applied a clear coat. Next I'll apply masking fluid, then over that a top coat. when dry I'll peel the masking fluid and see how it looks.

1/35 barbed wire is good enough for my purposes, and isn't cost prohibitive. It's a bear to work with though, very pokey. Keep it in a bag--it grips/sticks on everything--don't argue with me on that one. I like the look better than the old style of two wires wrapped. I find that painting it first is the best. More paint will be added on the model but only touch up--it's too finicky otherwise. I need to figure out barbed wire posts. My experiments with styrene and paper clips have not really worked out. The WW1 style of circular or spiral posts is also very odd looking on a model. Maybe I need thinner wire.

 

Goals: (1) Actual completion A. Establish a habit of working a bit at a time; i. avoid hobby burn out; ii. avoid buying new kits... as much as possible...; iii. plan out future projects; B. Finish a project; C. Finish an army. D. Take the boys to a tournament. (2) improve painting A. Practical; i. paint and experiment; B. Get instruction; i. watch videos online; ii. take in-person courses... Adepticon? (3) get a decent place at a tournament; A. play more games.

[Bjorn Firewalker]

Excellent work on the heavy weapons teams. The sandbags and other barricades are excellent touches.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Thank you very much, positive feedback is encouraging to stay motivated.

 

Krieg Heavy Weapons. The sandbags were a first for me. I tried the technique of making a roll (or log) of green stuff and chopping out, what appeared to be, the shape of sand bags. I tried using cloth for texture but it seem the thread was a bit big. I painted the bags green just to help blend in the whole army. I'm not going for a monotone/monochromatic paint scheme. I'm not really sure what it'll look like in the end, but real armies tend to have a lot of different camo patterns going all at once.

 

At the last minute I went with Woodland Scenics Water Effects instead of the resin I had planned on. This was a questionable choice. Always have a plan with water effects. I'd run many experiments now and it was time to just move forward. The resin would have dried in 4 hours and fully cured probably in 24-48. The water effects are a different story... so the heavy weapon base looks cloudy and off-color, and will likely look like that for a week while it dries. It's hard waiting to see if I've screwed it up or not. In any case, water effects shrink and I'll need more layers. So, it most likely can be fixed if needed, it'll just take time.

 

Can't beat 'em join 'em. I broke down and got a knight, and I figured I'd finally get started. I'm thinking Terryn or Hawkshroud. I was planning to do Malinax last year but the decals sold out from forgeworld. So, at least economically, it makes sense to use the decals that come with the model. A few years ago I did get some 1/6 scale ammo belts (M134 minigun ammo feed schute for the gatling cannon and Mk19 grenade launcher belt for the rapid fire battle cannon). But it was a project that never came to be. I'm just going to build this guy and worry about conversions on the next knight.

 

Magnetization was fairly easy really. Instead of large magnets I used a number of smaller ones to ensure a strong bond while giving me some flexibility on fitting the magnet on the model. I didn't have a drill bit (lost in the move apparently) to drill out the arms, but that was the only thing I'd change really. I've still got to figure out the pieces for the thermal cannon and battle cannon, but it's assembled otherwise. Very fun build. I think I'm going to base coat it in a hull red or dark brown to do some chipping effects...

[Captain Caine 24th]

Airbrush. I started airbrushing with a cheap master airbrush and it really didn't work out. I then went to an Iwata HP-CS. Initial set up was easy as it worked with the master brand air compressor and hose. It functioned properly for a few years. I painted a lot of tanks and Valkyries. Eventually I bent the needle (take the time to be careful with those needles). And, the spring in the action seemed to lose it's power as it would return to the front position. I then went to the badger chrome and badger 105. The chrome is perfectly good, it just has more tiny bits (which I have dropped down the sink) and I use an adapter with the hose (and tape to get a good seal). The 105 is working well for me right now. I just bought a fine point tip for it... and we'll see how she works. 

For the most part I use vallejo model air, but the vallejo thinner functions well with citadel paints. I probably should use a solution of retarder & water or medium, but I just thin the paints. I don't have too many issues with dry tip. I've also been able to use vallejo metal and tamiya paints through the badger 105 (which would ordinarily give other airbrushes real trouble). I'd like to take an airbrush class as it seems to be a skill that develops on its own in slightly incorrect ways--I figure something out and I go with it if it works. But, in watching videos I see lots of tips and tricks that others disagree with. For instance, many use windex while others say windex will degrade the o-rings. Likewise everyone has different solutions for dry tip and thinning paints. I mean one trick is that all paint companies, Vallejo, tamiya, citadel, minitaire, etc... seem to have chemical makeups and require different thinners. But the next trick is that even a single paint bottle requires different amounts of thinning within its lifespan. There's never been a sweet-spot, take all comers answer to 'how much should i thin my paints.' Even in cleaning the airbrush some get a jewelry cleaner, fill it with cleaning solution and submerge the whole airbrush inside (which I did for a time). Meanwhile others say you should almost never take the airbrush apart. And, to that end I find I do find that cleaning the airbrush frequently as I go is probably the best for me so far. Painting too long without pausing will just clog it.

 

Knights. Anyway, I did a coat of VMA mahogany and a clear coat. I'm working on a good rust color base to try some chipping effects. 

It's interesting how lighting really can change the appearance of a color.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Knights. Work continues on house Terryn. Previously I elected to do the base weathering color as VMA Mahogany. It works, but on the next knight I think I'll use a Hull Red and various gradients of orange and red for more uneven rust tones. Though I'm not intending on over-doing the rust--lore wise the model is the pride of the House, not an implement of the death guard. Still I feel weathering is important if the machine walks with my Krieg.

 

Hairspray method. I experimented with hairspray on a single piece first if corrections needed to be made. I sprayed the hairspray into the airbrush for a bit tighter control on the amount I'd be putting on the model. This was very cheap hairspray and was what we had at the house. It's worth noting that some recommend a low-hold hairspray for best results. I was surprised that this hair spray left a white residue... but it didn't impair my results.

Kantor Blue and Caldor Sky appear to be working.

I let it dry briefly and set to applying water with a brush. letting the water soak in I began to rub the plates gently with the brush to weather it. I used a finger nail to make some scratches. The keywords are patience and slow... It looks a bit crazy as since I applied water to the whole area,the paint seems to bubble or wrinkle in texture, giving the appearance that the whole blue layer is destroyed. However--thankfully--that goes away and it dries perfectly flat, and while still wet the weathering can be easily done.

Thus far it's just the blue on the armor panels. I need to do some planning on white or black stripes in the painting. I'm hesitant as my results have never been great. I use tamiya masking tape, but even with that I usually don't get the stark lines I like to see. There's too much texture, and an imperfect tape job allows overspray. I suppose I could mark out the lines in pencil and use masking fluid. Masking putty would be too irregular for the task.

I also managed to get a layer of VMA gun metal sprayed on a lot of parts. I'm thinking I'll spray that with nuln oil, and then work in a sort of zenithal fashion with VMA silver. 

It's time to start thinking about the base. I've been wondering if Urban Conquest terrain would fit... Besides Krieg (being in mud, naturally), my other armies are all urban rubble bases. Meanwhile, I think I'll go with vallejo metal color old gold on the trim. It's hard to get a decent gold...

 

I'm happy to be making a lot of improvement here, but all can still be improved.

 

 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Basing. Using  cork and polystyrene I've got a rubble/urban base going. But, t his time I wanted to add some water effects. So, the plan is to have a toxic leak coming out the the barrel. So, the plan was to create a plastic dam to hold in the resin I'm going to pour onto the base. I cut some clear plastic out of a food container that would just be thrown away anyway. I then got the hot glue gun ready. This was not well thought out. The asymmetric and protruding bits of the base prevented a good fit. Though I could have gone ahead with the resin pour, it would have been lopsided when hardened... I'm going to have to think about a better plan. Conceivably a circular sort of cookie-cutter type plastic object could be placed on a base and secured with hot glue. But, even assuming I get the resin pour right, I'm still not sure the removal of the plastic will go without incident. 

Anyway, I'm excited for the next projects as well. The tech priest Manipulus(?). 

Positive. Practice makes perfect. Learned some lessons.

Negative. The base didn't turn out (yet).

Goals. Stop buying new projects.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Knights. Work continues on House Terryn. I applied layers to get an off-white. In hindsight I should have paid more attention to the codex... should be red shoulder pads. Oh well. Anyway, I worked from  banblade brown to rackarth flesh to pallid witch flesh to pure white. Previously I had applied a base layer of mahagony and then a protective layer of pledge floor finish, and then a layer of hairspray. This method for the white functioned, but caution is required for weathering. The hairspray method doesn't work if too many layers of paint are added. 

I taped off the shoulder pads to prevent overspray, because they present an easy straight line. But for the more intricate pieces I wasn't sure what to do. I tried some maskol. It worked fairly well. Only afterwards, of course, I remembered I needed to apply some highlights. I need a checklist or something.

Decals were much less fun than I remember. I got this decal sheet on Ebay to decorate a half-shoulder pad. It worked after about 19 coats of microset/sol. Not cool. The decal really needs to be cut down as much as possible before placement on the model. It actually worked, though I made some mistakes. The final result may look very nice, but it was extremely labor intensive and at no point during the prolonged affair was it clear that success would be achieved. 

 

Lessons: patience is key. Take the time to make sure all steps are completed before moving on. Let the paint and clear coat dry! 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Knights. I've been working through the oil washes. Since it dries so much more slowly, and is easy to thin or thicken, I do like working with oil washes. Very messy though. Interestingly the oil didn't hurt the paint below. I thought about doing another clear coat (which may be best practice) but went ahead without it. The Vallejo metal colors continue to give me problems though. I can get them really smooth through the airbrush, but by normal brush they dry out really quickly. I'm thinning with 91% isypropyl, but perhaps I need 99%. In some areas I got a smooth finish. In other areas it turned into a complete disaster. And, even the clear coat did not hold up to alcohol. So I managed to damage many painted areas. I'm not sure what to do about gold colors. The GW and even other vallejo paints just don't compare. 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Cadia/Krieg. Another project is underway for the guard forum challenge. I've been using carriages this edition, but the tank is much more points efficient on the table top. So, this the beginning of that project. 

 

The Exalted Court of the High King. Elsewhere the progress on the knight continues. I sat and stared at it for some time wondering which way to go with it. My armies are all urban rubble bases except my Krieg. So, I figured I'd try a trench. The problem with a trench base is that it's inherently underground and a base is an above ground thing. As a practical matter this means the base would be too tall for the knight, if I were to make it sufficiently deep and detailed. The second challenge is that I've not yet made a full trench board or display board before. I wasn't sure on how to make it with the items I had available. I used styrene, cork, and green stuff. I'm not sold on the trench base idea so far, but even if it fails it'll be good practice and lessons learned for my Krieg display board

 

Basing. Making the sandbags from green stuff is difficult as the substance is sticky. I should wait longer to work with it. Some say to add more of the blue and less of the yellow to reduce stickiness (I’m not sure). I’ve seen people use an acrylic block to work green stuff on, and I might try that… they are cheap on Ebay. Adding drops of water to my knife, table, and hands as I go helps a bit. The fabric I used to make texture (and to erase fingerprints) was my shirt, but the fabric appears too large. I actually like working with Magic Sculpt more, but it seems more expensive and less readily available. It hardens more and is less elastic than Green Stuff, but that hasn’t been an issue for me.

 

[Captain Caine 24th]

The Terryn knight will need a tech priest in a red dress according to the  artwork. I need way more cherubs.

The question is, how do I make the legs for the tech priest?

Foetid blight drone legs, mechanical necron legs, spawn legs, or maybe Tyranid legs... If properly done this conversion should raise serious questions as to what side she's on...

I've got most of the bits together. I really need a sword arm raised in the air with the hilt pointed upward, and the blade pointed downward... Possibly eldar/harlequin/sisters of khaine might work, but I've yet to figure it out.

The appropriate Halo is a subject of much debate. The mortarch of grief is such a great model, it's blasphemy to cut it up. The veiled skull is especially eerie and unsettling but doesn't match the artwork. I need a screaming skull. Maybe a Banshee?

Work continues on cherubs. I need more but the mono-pose doesn't help. I think with sisters of battle we can expect a lot more cherubs, but I can't wait on this project till the end of the year. With the exorcist/immolater sprue there is an awesome cherub bit, but it's a bit hard to come by at the moment. I'd really love to have cherubs playing trumpets. I don't have the skill with greens stuff to do it.

Also, work on my third smash captain continues. I need to figure out the right head. 

 

 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Brush Painting.

Adepticon (Schaumburg, Illinois, USA) Painting and Hobby Seminars. I really enjoyed taking a few painting classes. I got a lot of great feedback. Even though I've been in the hobby since about 1996, I haven't really taken painting that seriously. Or rather, it might be more appropriate to say I've not put the actual time in. So, here's my attempt at blending and source lighting. The manner of brush strokes, the amount of paint on the brush, and the viscosity of the paint, all appear to be more a feel than a science of measurement. And, that is only by experience. So, I've bought a squad of intercessors, and I'll work on that. We'll see if I make improvement across ten of them (my first ultramarines since about 1998). 

 

Priming Models. Zenithal. 

I also took classes on lighting and color theory. I think I'll try a black primer with white zenithal for this squad. I know there are others who use colors instead of black and white to accentuate the base color tone, but I need to learn more about that. I think if my intent is to blend my colors with a brush on the model, the foundation of primer colors may not be significant. But, I'm open to being wrong on that.

 

Motivation. There is very much a liberating feeling to letting go of a need to paint an army for a tournament or deadline. The goal instead is now to learn to paint, and paint as well as I can. So, if I find progress in blue, maybe I'll do some blood angels or imperial fists.

 

Further Inquiry. I think I'm going to look into Patreon for in-depth tutorials, but also see about more in-person hobby seminars around the US. 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Brush Blending. The better brushes make a clear difference in attempting to blend, perhaps more than anything. Throughout my painting for years, I'd only ever used a small fine point brush and a dry brush. The reservoir in the more expensive brushes is large to hold water, and the tip holds finer than my fine point brushes. Conceivably I could paint eyes (assuming I get a microscope) without the paint immediately drying. It's strange to think of how many years I've done this hobby without really looking into how to do things properly.

So, this has been the work for the past days. There seems to be some improvement, but it is slow. Trying very thin layers allows less obvious mistakes, and seems to blend a bit better. I still think my paint is drying too quickly when I try the 2-brush method. The loaded brush method is beyond me. The meet in the middle method works sometimes for me, but I think i just have to commit to putting a scary amount of paint on the model. 

Switching to a masterson wet palette  at the suggestion of many others feels like it'll be the right answer. Previously I'd just used parchment paper and wet paper towel. I feel it handles a bit differently, almost like driving someone else's vehicle. I really may be true that many brush techniques can work, but each has it's pitfalls. (notably I don't paint with the pots in the wet palette, I just wanted to show the colors i'm working with.

 

Looks like a lot more practice will be the only way to figure this blending thing out. I may try flow improver tonight to see if it helps the blends.

[Bjorn Firewalker]

The Knight straddling a trench is a great idea. The trench looks appropriately World War I-ish. I hope to see them completed soon.

Edited by Bjorn Firewalker, 14 April 2019 - 02:27 PM.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Thanks Bjorn, I'm still not sure how to paint the wood in the trench yet. I've been doing brown with a darker wash... but I'm thinking weathered wood should be grey with some green mold coloring. I also think I want water effects in there to make the planks somewhat submerged. The other problem is that if it's all too muddy, I suppose the knight would just sink into the mud. I'm going to try out some snow as well. I'd like to go for a muddy winter look.

 

Blood Angels. I'm still stuck on the idea of getting better with a brush. Decent/ok airbrush blends are fairly easy, realistic airbrush blends based on a real light source are a bit more difficult. But, airbrushing alone won't finish a model. So, i'm working these blending and glazing techniques. Ebay rescued scouts sitting in my box, un-built for a year, are a perfect test subject. Interestingly enough I'm really liking the liquitex white ink for wet blending, as it's so thin and doesn't dry immediately. I'm considering trying out others. Anyway, here's the progress this weekend:

 

[Majkhel]

Hey mate! You are making fantastic poses for the Captains with the Intercessors' bodies. I also love the terrain you are baking there. 
And that lettering on the scrolls is fantastic. Could you be tempted to add the script to the other side as well?

[Captain Caine 24th]

Thanks Majkhel! I'd love to do more scrolls. I think I can get the green stuff rolled thinner next time too. I'm only limited by the number of cherubs (hopefully with the new sisters of battle this year there'll be new cherubs to pick up. 

 

Humble Beginnings. I've been watching a lot of painting videos lately. I've been trying to note brush strokes (pull/push), paint dilution, and consistency/viscosity. I've no doubt there are many ways to blend, glaze and layer. And, at some point I'd like to learn as many as possible, but for now, I'm trying to zero in on thing in order to get it to work for me. So, though it may seem small I took photos of two big steps for me. 

The video that helped my brain understand glazing was Rob Paints Models (Youtube) on thinning paints.I may try his patreon. Using flow improver to decrease the surface tension of the paint allows the paint to maintain position, instead of pooling or puddling. Also, using too much paint leaves streaking/puddles/pooling. I'm really thinking with some flow improver and less paint on the brush (and patience) I can do better with my scouts.