Caine's progress

[Captain Caine 24th]

Painting Practice. While I continue to work on brushwork, I took a painting class with CK studios on airbrushing. I like the idea of challenging myself with a new color. So, imperial fists it is (after all those stubborn fists were there on the walls of the palace with my blood angels). It's fun to paint something different. Though this class was painting on a particular style, i found it very interesting to add to my ever-growing toolkit of hobby painting. Clearly I haven't mastered the techniques, but this is still leagues ahead of my usual painting. I look forward to taking many more of their classes at adepticon next year. But, until then, it's practice, practice, practice.

 

It was good to practice on particular painting techniques. I can't say that I'll complete an imperial fist army, but this did serve as sort of a proof of concept on shading & highlighting, source lighting & zenithal, masking with tape, metal colors on heat source, painted chipped weathering, etc. Man, what if they brought Rogal Dorn back without his hands? Dreadnought Primarch? Dude. Alright, I need to calm down, but yes Dreadnought Dorn would cause me to go with imperial fists. I mean if Fulgrim comes back as half serpent, how could GW not make a dreadnought primarch? Anyway...

 

So, you'll see the heat sources aren't realistic, as can be seen on a google search of M134 Minigun Test by General Electric. That shows a true over-heated barrel has a lot of deep red and purple tones, with a pink or orange sort of highlight. Which, to a lessor extent I've seen on a single barrel M2 .50 cal heat up during night fire. However, this such a subdued nearly black red isn't as visually appealing. Likewise, no properly trained soldier would fire to the point of a barrel warping--unless it's a last stand type of situation/being overrun. I still think this was a valuable lesson and will find use, likely on jetbike exhaust.

 

Knight. My work on the knight titan has stalled out. I did get work done on the base but the water effects didn't turn out. So, I think I'm going to try and salvage it. I did figure out barbed wire posts though (a little .81 brass rod twisted to form loops/circles appears, at the moment, to represent well the WW1 trench setting).

[Bjorn Firewalker]

Your Contemptor looks most promising.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Thanks, Bjorn. I just may paint a few more Imperial Fists...

 

Death Korps of Krieg. Well, I failed to get my vow done for the Relics of the Armoury. But, on the plus side I did get work done. I'm working on a crew for this tank too. I've been seeking an elusive grey-blue scheme for a long time. 

 

[Bjorn Firewalker]

Your Basilisk is well-customized. I'm sure the gun crewmen appreciate the enlarged platform they have to work on.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Getting back to Blood Angels. Working on glazing...

 

[Kolgrim DeathHowl]

Excellent painting and conversions so far!!

[Captain Caine 24th]

Thanks. I had a day off of work and I decided to catch up on some painting over a long weekend. So, instead of finishing an army, I painted up the least points-efficient unit in the game. I never was that big of a fan of it, but the Malcador infernus looks really good in-person. Worth the $170 from forgeworld. It's heavy.

[Captain Caine 24th]

There are a couple of questions on the Death Korps. Most simply (1) what paint scheme? Magazines like Fine Scale Modeler, Tamiya, etc. ran a number of Great War/WW1 articles in recent years commemorating the 100 year anniversary. Next, (2) can a table top army vary in paint scheme and still maintain sufficient cohesion? This question comes up on the forums once a year, maybe more. I'm not particularly satisfied with the debate, though I understand the cohesion argument, real armies (even the united states) are rather messy conglomerations in actual practice (woodland camo, desert camo, digital camo, olive drab--all mixed into individual units, and with even greater variety among other units participating in actions). But, maybe I can have different paint schemes and maintain a common theme... maybe each tank has some blue, or maybe the trench context puts heavy mud and weathering on all tanks.

 

Anyway, here are some experiments that did not turn out well. My putty is leaving some kind of residue... more to follow on that (whether it's a problem or not). Maybe I should have bought the more expensive panzer putty (the black putty here is reasonably priced stuff from greenstuff world on ebay). 

 

And, I'm working on my first forgeworld leman russ. The latent 12-year-old in me is in ecstasy. The resin is very heavy in a satisfying way. I'm actually taking the time to magnetize it properly (for the most part). I just worry I'll be accused of using a Chinese knock-off at a tournament.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Krieg...

 

Lesson 1: Write down the paint you use in case you don't come back to a project for months...

 

Lesson 2: Actually plan what you are doing. In my previous post i just sort of attacked the paint scheme hoping it'd work out to my liking. This was dumb. Now I have two very oddly painted Russes sitting about. I think printing out a schematic type drawing of a leman russ, and coloring on that paper first, would be the smart way to do it. Alternatively, I just laid out tape, drew a pattern on that, cut it up, and started using it to paint. In either case, I think it's important to have the vision beforehand. So, Instead of coating more leman russ tanks in extra paint, I've decided to carve up some Evergreen styrene sheets (essentially making paint swatches).

 

 

References: MIG Weathering Special World War 1; FineScale Modeller (Holiday 2018); Tamiya 2015 issue 241; "Les Canons de la Victoire" (for pictures, unfortunately I don't speak french to be able to read this one).

 

Lesson 3: Weathering. i'm experimenting with chipping using Mold builder (a liquid fast drying latex available at artshops, Michael's, Hobby lobby,etc.). I find it's similar to Humbrol liquid mask (or vallejo has a version too). The stark price difference is really the reason to use the mold builder. I don't particularly like the hairspray & salt method as it requires a good deal of time in applying clear coats/varnish/Pledge floor finish, to protect the under coat of rust. Using mold builder is just a matter of putting it on the tank with a sponge. The trick here, however is getting the chips sized appropriately in scale and not to be heavy-handed with it. Previously I've just used mold builder on barrels and such that are very rusty for terrain. More and more I think it has a very practical application for the tanks themselves (time saving).

 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Krieg. With the Gorgon back in stock in Forgeworld, and impulse control at a record low, we have a new project. Alex, I'll take the most points inefficient units in the game for 800. Still, the thing about it is, Death Korps are the only army where I genuinely don't mind losing a match up (maybe I'm just getting older too). It's true what they say, paint the army you love--don't chase the meta. I've got a warehouse of unpainted plastic at this point.

Mud Effects & Basing. Here's something a bit different. In taking a lot of painting classes this past year, there is a common thread of using reference photos. I'd like to do more of it. So, let's look at real mud for my bases.

Rust Effects & Weathering. Likewise, I'd like to do better with Rust effects. So, on my evening dog walk here are some more reference photos. I'm thinking about doing those Krieg siege drills soon (and yes I know i'd better paint that Gorgon first...). I was thinking it'd actually be really interesting if B&C had a reference photo collection forum. Not sure what category that'd fall under. Maybe there's one already?

 

 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Krieg. My Infernus needed a grenade screen, in keeping with the Great War theme. So, on to Ebay/Amazon looking for screen. Amaco Wireform  Contour Mesh (1/8" or 1.58mm pattern). I used styrene strips to make the frame. I should have went slower as metal is very hard to glue to styrene (very fiddly). Anyway, I gave it a coat of AK dark russian base, moss green, and added some black and brown. I probably should have measured it to fit beforehand as it is a bit large. 

Next I've been working on building out my infantry forces. I've needed to finish earthshaker crews for awhile now as I've just been using my infantry as crew in games. So, hopefully I can field pure krieg one day. 

I also need a standard. I've had the warhammer fantasy Empire (freeguild) general box sitting around for a very long time, for just such an occasion. I cut off the hammer and added a scythe. I suppose I could call it the relic of lost cadia or something. 

Goals. My goal this year is to get 7 hours in of painting per week. Thus far I've been doing well, and I'm ahead of schedule, thanks to the las vegas open (LVO), where I painted all weekend. I'm at about 101 hours total, and I'm trying to get time in every day, even if it's just 15 minutes. It adds up. One issue though is that the 101 hours of painting equates to 101 hours of cleaning and assembling models. Converting and kitbashing was always one of my favorite activities, but now it seems a distraction while I'm focusing on painting. With the outbreak of the virus shutting down work for the most part, I suppose the silver lining of adepticon being cancelled is that I can get some serious time logged in painting my army. 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Krieg. Getting more painting in and gearing up for a spring offensive. I'm really not a fan of resin so much these days. Hopefully I can get a full 6 infantry squads ready for 2000 points of glory. Forgeworld shut down with the pandemic, but I managed to get one more order in. 

 

With the heavy artillery crew come the arms needed for the crew. The bodies are from the advancing infantry squad. I like Vallejo European mud mixed with Russian dark mud. I'm not a fan of AK puddles, woodland scenic works just as good. I suppose I could use epoxy to go even cheaper.  The AK has a slight green/brown tint to it. Adding paint easily changes the color for whatever you need. The next step is adding a bit of AK wet effects on the edges of the puddles (i'm thinking gloss varnish is a cheaper alternative). The photo may not be good quality, but the team running is a really striking pose--to the extent it's really a shame GW hasn't continued the range like this. Fingers crossed for whatever imperial guard comes next that we'll all have to buy to stay competitive. 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Krieg. With added time off work, the Death Korps is on full war footing. I'm looking to get 6+ infantry squads ready for 2000 point matches. Fingers are crossed that GW and forgeworld actually produce a death Korps supplement. I'm eager to get my new Medusa carriage battery ready (favorite models ever, but in order to not be absolute hot garbage, they'll have to be the custom regiment of +6" range, reroll 1 dice for # of shots).

 

Alright, so maybe the death riders are my favorite models ever. A bit of hot water to bend out the mold deformations and liquid green stuff seems to be working ok. I don't know how to paint horses. I'm continuing to try wet and dry mud effects with the bases. Last stand models on Ebay makes mortar/bomb/rounds (appearing to be 3d printed), which work great for my purposes of UXO (unexploded ordinance) strewn about the battlefield. It'd really be great for dioramas too. I'd like to build an ammo depot...

 

Weathering. Work continues on tanks. Oil washes are much easier to work with (lots more time to work, coffee stain/tide marks/whatever you call it are easily wiped away). I'm using cheap Grumbacher, just mixing colors. I'm not sure that Abteilung 502, the expensive brand specifically for modellers is necessary--though I've not tried it yet. In much the same sentiment, I feel a gloss black easily makes oil stains (or black weathering powder helps make crusted/dried up grease and oil). I can mix red, yellow, brown, purple, oils for rust streaking too. That said, I'll like to try the expense weathering products to see it work. 

 

Goals: paint at least 7 hours per week, or 5 days a week.

 

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Very nice work - in particular, the base on your crew pulling the heavy stubber is amazing.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Thanks Dr_Ruminahui! Even with working less hours lately, i find my pace is very slow. Hopefully they see the tabletop someday soon. And, hopefully when the new guard regiments come in the next 5 years, GW makes more dynamic or action poses like the old krieg. GW seems to be doing spectacular sculpts on individual models, but basic line infantry squads could use an update. Who knows, maybe heavy weapon teams won't make it to the next edition, and something like tarantulas, or some kind of anti-tank gun is the new replacement. I just hope Krieg doesn't go to legends too soon... these Forgeworld prices are outrageous.

 

Bases and conversions. For the commander I wanted to model the lance differently. I've wrapped .2mm copper wire around the .81 K&S brass rod used for the death rider lances, to create a leather handle. This also allowed me to attach to the lance, a 1mm chain to support the lance or at least add a slight bit of realism (most hobby chain is 1.5mm which i think is great for tanks, but not troops, so i just bought a $1 necklace off Ebay and cut it up--walmart, michael's, hobby lobby all sell 1.5mm chain, if you're looking to detail up a leman russ or two). As to the commissar base, I used 1:35 German 21cm shells which were too big for converting my basilisk... Using cork and styrene to make the rest of it. I use a razor saw to create the wood grain texture on the wood planks for trench bases.

 

Trench Bases. Work continues on the trenches, adding green stuff sandbags. I'm not particularly happy with using a t-shirt to press a texture onto the sandbags, but it's better than no texture. Maybe a different fabric would look better. Alliance Model Works makes the 1:35 barbed wire I love (Secret Weapon Miniatures also make a razor wire if you like that). I'm using .51mm K&S brass wire for the trench pickets/posts--it bends easily over a paperclip to create the loops, but isn't so completely flimsy that it doesn't hold in place. The barbed wire is super finnicky, but it looks way better than wrapped wire, which is commonly used.

 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Krieg! 

Heavy weapons. I picked up an HO scale train car to experiment on. Before I commit to a trench themed display board, I need to practice. There's a lot of trial and error. Adding plaster to Vallejo mud helps it texture more like turned out mud that has tried. Here are the results so far.

 

HO cars and locomotives are far too small, On30 is largely close enough to convert (the 40k community typically doesn't freak out over scale too much). However, the HO railway is a workable solution for for narrow gauge (the distance between the two rails) railway, which is what was used in WW1 trenches to get supplies to the front. And, therefore, the undercarriage of the rail car is also useful (I added some details, like wood (styrene strips) and brake wheels (Zinge Industries) . I picked up a book for reference. Trains to the Trenches: The Men, Locomotives and Tracks That Took the Armies to War 1914-18. 

 

Valdor Tank Hunter. I've not delusion it'll accomplish more than 2.5 wounds a turn on a landspeeder storm, but the weight of the model is very satisfying. I don't think it can even be taken in a death korps list. So, purely a friendly addition to the army. The Infernus needed a friend. Still, it's not done yet. I want to add more life to it. Stowage from Value Gear Details seems to look good, even if out of scale (1:35) for this model (though they do make 1:48-1:56 scale stowage). As to putting a squad on top, it's a poor financial decision, but looks like it might work... I'm not sure about it yet. One problem with death Korps is the availability of hands and arms (FW doesn't hand them out for free, sorry for the pun). Anvil Industry now makes a lot of hands suitable for AM/IG, so I ordered some to convert some arms for my purposes. I'll let you know how it goes

 

Next project--my favorite all-time models.

Just when you thought I couldn't paint up anything less useful on the tabletop...

 

 

 

Edited April 26, 2020 by Captain Caine 24th

[Majkhel]

Great pieces!
The coats however are too way clean for all this mud ;) At least brush some dark brown at their bottom edges to tie them better to those lovely bases.

[Captain Caine 24th]

Majkhel: Oh yes, the mud will follow... Experiments are promising thus far. I'm going to try out some vallejo mud effects, and some AK interactive effects. I'm going to try and use an airbrush on a wetted brush to create mud-splatter effects. I think I'll try a lighter brown for a dryer look, as well as a darker brown for some variation. Mixing plaster with vallejo mud seems to give it a dried, clumpy texture, whereas mixing thinner gives a thin/loose/runny texture. 

 

Goals and efforts. I'm getting some more vehicles on their way, while logging lots of painting hours each week. With the pandemic and slow-down at work, I've had more time. Though I wish I'd get 4 hours a day in, limited motivation and other distractions get in the way. Still, I'm averaging just over an hour a day, and I'm painting every day the last 12 weeks. I've been keeping a log of my progress, and getting better about it. Last year the longest stretch I had was 6 days. Most days I wouldn't paint, but then I'd paint like 6-8 hours on the weekend. I'm more and more convinced the only way to get better at blending/glazing is to paint everyday--to be one with the paint, in some overly cliche martial arts way.

 

Horizon. Blood Angels are on my mind again. Better dead than without red. I'm really interested in the idea of Mephiston in an impulsor moving quickly to assist/buff assault units at the front. Some times i couldn't be troubled to read the rules and codexes. At other times i'm obsessed with variations, permutations, and list building. It's getting in the way of my painting this week. There is always a new unit or super awesome thing coming out. I have to remember that this won't change, and regardless of it, I still need an army to play. 

 

Classes: Well no Adepticon (Illinois). I'm doubtful for Reapercon (Texas). I'm signed up for CK Studios (Minnesota) and Sam Lenz (Wisconsin) classes this summer. We'll see if those are cancelled. I think Sam's is already. But, I can still make time for classes on YouTube, and Patreon. I find that online classes/videos/tutorials are great for a view of the model. But, in-person classes give a feel for the process--so many things are happening at once, paint consistency, brush saturation, brush direction, brush pressure. So, there is a benefit to being in-person, though I never really know what questions to ask. I'd like to ask more questions. 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Hellhound Flame Tanks. The medium blue, light blue XF-18/23 coloring is still alright, not perfect, but doesn't quite sing. The khaki I tried on the tank destroyer isn't quite right either. I like a bit of grey and blue in the tank coloring. Also, mud and rust don't show up well on red tanks.  Camouflage  patterns are fine too, but can be painstaking for a whole army. I still like the idea of a piece-meal army. Realistically when numbers are depleted other units and fresh recruits will fill in. Creating coherence is the problem there though. Anyway, better to paint and get table ready than to theorize for months and paint nothing. I'm sure there's a psychological term/jargon for failing to start due to too much planning. 

 

Tank Detailing. It might be a felony crime in my state to convert Krieg models, they're just too precious. Still, conversions have always been my favorite part. Previous experiments showed promise for extra armor. I attempted 3 'marks' of extra armor. The slat or 'bar' armor for rpg's was rather time intensive, and slight imperfections showed disproportionately. Though I did develop a better system, i'm not sure it's worth it to try and perfect. Also, slat armor doesn't fit Krieg... more likely scions would do well with it for a modern asthetic. Armored skirts, though not widely used, actually do go back to ww1 though. In any case, I found my designs improved at each experiment. So, here are some old experiments from 2016. I'm posting them now as I'm trying to figure out what to do with my Flame tanks for a bit of flavor. Additionally, I may try to repaint and rework these old test models for actual use. Magic sculpt putty was good for sandbags, though the model requires some extra styrene brackets/creations to make the sandbags seem to sit realistically (can't just throw them on). I still like the idea of 'unditching beams' from ww1 in case these boys get stuck in it. Value Gear Details still seems to fit for crates and tarps. 

 

Krieg. Well the index still doesn't let me put the engineers in this rock drill, but it is a really cool model. I'm working on using rock and gravel glue from AK, with various sized sand and pebbles, and weathering powders. I like some of the effect, but I'm still learning. I had some issues with the glue drying white... and screwing it up. 

 

[Captain Caine 24th]

Krieg! Hades Breaching Drill. Just need two more and an 8th Ed. rules redux, and revision. Interestingly as tournaments increasingly accept GW's presence, they've also accepted some rules modifications. So, my drill here is converted. I added a driver, not sold with the kit. However, conversions mean it is expressly prohibited at Adepticon (this is me making a frowning face and thumbs down). It's 99% Forgeworld, the exceptions being the driver's pointing hand, the gravel, sand, weathering powders, and paint. I agree that bad/poor modifications and rampant recasts should be discouraged for good and fair play (e.g. how many long out of print chaplain dreadnoughts were genuine???), but I think they've thrown the baby out with the bath water. Long live conversions and kitbashes!

 

Guard Conversion/Kitbash Bits. Krieg is notoriously short on available arms and hands. Forgeworld certainly doesn't do any favors with throwing some extras in. In the past I've used Anvil Industry for rifle-grip hands, and it seems they now have a larger assortment of hands available. So, I ordered these a couple of weeks ago in order to complete my valdor tank. By way of explanation on why I'm adding a $70 krieg squad to a $155 tank, I sometimes prefer the idea of: concept > execution. I mean I paint the best I can, and I try to implement new techniques to get better, but the idea of prioritizing a cool idea over a perfect paint job was talked about in a recent youtube tabletop minions video with Uncle Atom, and Sam Lenz. 

 

In another way, I need to get models on the table top. It's a hard pill to swallow when you expect your tank commander pask to kill the enemy outright and it fails, but with the valdor, we both know it'll do 1.4 wounds on a chimera. If you go to a tournament these days, it's a different bear than it was many years ago, very engineered, very distilled competitive environment, disabused from the game's romanticized underpinnings of beer, pretzels, and old friends. So, it all means one ought to have a very hyper engineered/militarized army list and plan. Facially, it would seem the Valdor and other less 'competitive' choices are contrary to that. But, I love the narrative of it. And, there's something to be said about learning by doing--always using the same list helps learning and refinement, but it also risks the cognitive bias of assuming one is correct or right, and discounting unorthodox options that might be perfectly valid. Rant over. Happy hunting all!

[Captain Caine 24th]

Urban Rubble Basing: I've been using large (dark brown) and thin (light brown) cork for basing for some time. I watched a Hobby Cheating Video with Vincent Venturella where he disagreed with just using cork, and used thin styrene (white hobby plastic sold at model train stores) to give a better cement texture. I tried it and bought into it, sometimes it's hard to cut it properly without leaving small unattractive gaps (the styrene ought to look like part of the concrete, not a layer). I like using Vallejo grey  pumice, or black lava rock to create texture in targeted areas (joints of concrete and underneath rubble). One problem is that it can look too gritty, whereas I might prefer a larger scale on the broken parts of concrete. This is why i don't spread the vallejo all over the surface of the concrete. Notably, I use the vallejo european and russian mud texture paints for my Krieg mud/trench bases (which adding a bit of static grass is a nice touch, also small plant roots work too). I also am experimenting with adding bits and such like UXO (unexploded ordinance), styrene I-Beams, wire/cabling, and cheap plastic gears off ebay. The issue here is making it look real or natural, not just appearing to be set there and glued down (I've also got to be careful to make the base in realistic sense--how did the model walk on top of this base (can't be impossible looking). The next step I want to work on is also making a base to fit a particular scenic quality--it should draw the eye in a direction. Due to speed I usually just throw it together with whatever works, but it should also be made with composition as a whole in mind (it shouldn't take away or distract, but rather add).

 

Space Marines. I get bored with one color. My new yellow recipe I stole from Reddit is working great. So, I think Imperial Fists might be my main focus for now. I had quite a few projects laying about half finished that don't qualify for the lock down challenge. So, I'm doing Ultramarines, Blood angels and Imperial fists. Also, if I've not painted dark imperium yet, it's not going to get painted. This is a lesson in realism. These hellblasters are not so hot rules-wise, so I doubt I'd play them if I did paint them as blood angels. In another way, most people in friendly games won't mind if I have multi-colored marines (and so long as rules are all clearly established up front most tournaments won't get too snarky). I know a lot of people had soup (multiple detachments of allies in competitive gameplay), but I love the idea of having old allies standing together for a last stand at the eternity gate from a narrative prospective. Maybe I should do Blood Angels, White Scars, and Imperial Fists... a throw back to the Siege of Terra.

 

Astra Militarum, KRIEG. I'm looking at priming some wyrdvayne psykers and getting them going. I suppose I could base coat them and get them in to the lockdown challenge still. We need more Guard! I was happy with some blending on the krieg commmissar, both red and black areas i spent some time on to get some contrast going. I really like the idea of a commissar tank being a vanquisher. So I've got the rust coat on that (looking to do the 'hairspray technique').

 

Hobby Progress: Last year for the first time in 20+ years I said I wanted to paint better. Well, I'm no golden demon winner, but let's see where we are at. I started an excel sheet to keep me honest with time spent measured at 15m intervals. Last year I had a total of 272.75 hours; including 77 hours of classes (adepticon, ReaperCon, CK studios dreadnought class, Miniature Monthly Squad and dreadnought). Here's the break down:

Sundays 88 hours

Mondays: 13

Tuesdays: 12.25

Wednesdays: 16

Thursdays: 20.25

Fridays: 18.75

Saturdays: 104.5 on Saturdays.

 

So, typically I didn't do any work all week and binged on the weekends. This year I wanted to paint 5x days a week, and do at least 7 hours per week. So far, I started rough, just like last year, but I've rallied and painted at least 15m per day for 17 weeks. I'm at 224.7588 hours (which I was at on october 25 last year), with the following:

Sundays: 46.5 hours

Mondays: 25.5 

Tuesdays: 28 

Wednesdays: 31.25 

Thursdays: 19.25 

Fridays: 24.75 and

Saturdays: 49.25 

 

Obviously others do far better. But, this is a big improvement for me. I still have trouble with motivation after a long day of work. I still have to clean and cut sprues and make bases, which conservatively doubles the amount of time investment listed here for painting alone. Maybe someday I can get into a painting competition. In any case, if you are reading this and unable to get an army done, well, hopefully this is some proof that you can do it. Even 15 minutes a day has a huge impact over time towards completions. Also, it keeps practice going so techniques aren't forgotten.

 

 

[Bjorn Firewalker]

Excellent work on the Redemptor Dreadnought and the Invictor warsuit.

[Majkhel]

I'm always surprised with the speed and quality you're chugging out here, great work!

 

Your urban bases look really nice. If you're worried with the 'clean' edges of the styrene, try using a triangle file on them for some quick, randomised chipping.

Cheers! :D

[Kassill]

Excellent thread with excellent explanations and thought processes. Looking forward to seeing more

[Captain Caine 24th]

@ Majkhel: I always have highs and lows in motivation. But for now I'm going to make hay while the sun shines. And, using the file is a very good idea, I'm trying that out presently. I don't know why I didn't think of it. Styrene takes to a file/sanding very easily.

 

@ Kassill, thank you for the encouragement! 

 

Imperial Fists. Working my way through here, I'm on 1st Squad, 3rd Company. I saw the recipe on Reddit (I'll have to look the username up, it escapes me for a moment) for Squig orange base, with progressive zenithal highlights of yriel and flash gitz yellow, and a focused wash of 4 to 1 cassandora yellow shade, and Iyanden contrast (this adds a lot). Really at the beginning it's not all that different from the results I tried on several paint schemes for the past year. But, it's the wash formula that really separates it. Instead of glazing or blending something like a vallejo light rust into the shadow/recess areas, when the wash formula is applied over the squig orange - it achieves the immediate color result. It's an interesting lesson in transparency and colors. Similarly I've also seen recent videos of people swearing by using pink as the undercoat for yellow. I've not tried it, though I'm sure it'll achieve a great yellow, it'd really just be a matter of taste. 

 

Urban Rubble Basing. Cork and styrene achieve a rubble texture that works for me, but I'm always looking to refine it, as I'm not sure it's the best approach. I tried to use plaster in several failed attempts throughout the years, but it just wasn't durable enough for bases. Likewise I couldn't get the models to glue onto plaster successfully. I liked the idea of plaster because it actually looks like concrete, and adding rebar steel reinforcment is very easy (e.g. pouring plaster into a plastic FW blister container with a cross section of rebar breaks apart nicely and looks like a real building collapse). Another thought I had was to focus the use of plaster--secure the model to the base, not the plaster, and use plaster rubble to enhance the appearance. Tangentially, I've contemplated the Hirst Arts (various mold & casting sales) website several times. It seems like it'd be easy to cast masonry odds and ends for my bases. They recommend "dental stone" instead of plaster of paris as it is several times stronger. ...maybe that's something to look into. Pouring silicon molds is an option to save time as well, but I don't want to repeat bases across the army. Anyway, for the rebar I'm using paper clips (brass rod would work fine) wrapped with .2mm copper wire, I've got a better system for reinforced concrete. 

 

Goals. Imperial Fist customizations.