Using 'normal'/Artist acrylic paints?

[ranulf the revenant]

Hey, I was wondering if you have experience in using acrylic paints from craft stores in miniatures or terrain...

So not vallejo, citadel, etc... but stuff like Amsterdam, Arteza, Marabu what have you. They're obviously a lot cheaper

[Midlight]

Some of them can be a bit thicker and need a touch more thinning down so they don't clog detail.

[apologist]

Most acrylics ranges come in students' and artists' quality. The former are cheaper, but tend to have more filler and lower-quality pigments. Both are perfectly useable – though as Midlight says, they often need a little more thinning.

 

If you want vibrant primaries – reds, yellows and blues, I recommend using artists' quality; but students' quality paints are great for earthy hues. I often use them for terrain, where they go further than Citadel colour and similar ranges.

[Bung]

I love the Golden iridiscent Metal colors and some Schmincke Artist colors like Titan White are my go to colors.

Titan White cause its a real white most hobby color whites arent realy pure whites, same goes for black.

[Fajita Fan]

I bought some Arteza acrylics for doing flip cup art on canvas and they’re so thick but I don’t know the right way to thin it.

[dice4thedicegod]

I use army painter primer and citadel washes... everything else is cheapo acrylic craft paint. Normally Americana or apple barrel brands.

 

They aren’t as good as the top brands... but they are ok for my level (I’m not going to win a golden daemon anytime soon)

[ranulf the revenant]

Thanks a lot for sharing your experiences guys! I'll get me a small set then and try stuff Edited November 1, 2019 by ranulf the revenant

[dice4thedicegod]

Big thing I’ve found with some of my cheap ones (particularly golds and yellows) is that instead of the canonical two thin coats, I need three. Just don’t go too thick in one go!

[Bryan Blaire]

I usually use non-model formulated acrylics for dry-brushing terrain after a spray prime & base-coat, and there are some interesting Metallica you can get in those lines too. No need to thin the craft acrylics for dry-brushing.

[Fajita Fan]

I usually use non-model formulated acrylics for dry-brushing terrain after a spray prime & base-coat, and there are some interesting Metallica you can get in those lines too. No need to thin the craft acrylics for dry-brushing.

I'll bet those are really good blacks. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bryan Blaire]

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

Amazing lightning colors too!

 

Metallics, stupid Autocorrect.

[dice4thedicegod]

, stupid Autocorrect.

Sad but true

[Fajita Fan]

You’re all unforgiven. 

Edited November 2, 2019 by Fajita Fan

[ranulf the revenant]

So to sum up, it's completely fine to just thrash whatever acrylic paint I find on a model, I just have to make sure I shredded it with enough thinner before, just don't Load too much on my brush or I might just Kill All my models

[Fajita Fan]

Sorta. Some craft paints have terrible bodies for miniature painting, I’ve bought some stuff I wouldn’t paint a rock with after putting a brush in it. The artist quality acrylics you can get at art stores will sometimes be much thicker and meant for canvas so you’ll need to experiment with thinning it.

 

Miniature paint should flow from a brush, if it’s too thick you’re sorta daubing it on the mini like oil painting with a knife. I made this mistake early on by trying to save money going off brand from GW’s seemingly overpriced stuff. If you have some starter set models to practice with you may find those paints work for you.

 

The Golden brand acrylic stuff works but I find some of them a bit too glossy, I prefer layer paints to be matte.

[ranulf the revenant]

Well, I got me a set of basic colours, 12 for the ridiculous price of 4€ at some discount shop. I'll just try them on some bases and see.. Edited November 2, 2019 by ranulf the revenant