Experience with blue stuff molds?

[GreenScorpion]

I was browsing through some webstores when I found this blue stuff to make reusable molds.

 

http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/reusable-blue-stuff/8-blue-stuff-mold-8-bars.html#

 

Has anyone had any experience with this or similar materials?

I was considering experimenting with it to make some torsos/legs to help me reduce the amount of arms stuck in my bits box. I had been thinking of experimenting with sculpting those parts (I am far from being a good sculptor but still it might be fun), which for a large amount would likely lead to strange variations. Likely if I sculpt a few variations and then create a mold it might be more feasible.

Any thoughts on that?

[TechType]

I've played around with it a bit, but mainly for "flat" castings that can be done with a one-piece mold, such as icons and the like. It's very good for that, and for simple replications it's a really good tool to have.

 

The reusability is good, I can tell you that much. Personally, I've found it difficult to get all the details out, so a chest eagle or something like that rarely comes out perfect (for me). That's easily fixable though, especially if you're using it for a "base" torso that you then do different detailing on.

 

Do remember to factor in the cost of GS though - if you find a decent offer on a bits site, it may be cheaper to just get the torsos there, depending on what you pay for the GS.

[Mendi Warrior]

I have used it on a few occasions. Reusability is indeed extremely good. I bought 2 sets from them.

 

For "flat" 2-dimensional castings, it works quite well.

 

For 3-dimensional castings, I tried making a few torsos for my Tau. Results were ok-ish, but it can be a bit challenging to align the two parts of the mould correctly. There is of course a mould line, not too bad depending on how good the two mould parts fit together, a cutter or a file can take care of it.

 

Devil is in the details, quite literally. It can be quite challenging to get them all correctly. In fact, it all depends on the pressure you apply and the degree of elasticity of the bluestuff: the colder it is, the lesser the degree of elasticity is and the worse the imprint. Hence you have a rather limited time to get the imprint done. Don't hesitate to start the mould over before casting if you feel it is not right, bluestuff is perfect for that.

 

I pour the water into a plastic tupperware for micro-wave oven (which I only use for that very purpose), warm it nearly to boiling point, plunge the bluestuff in it, maintain it under water with a cocktail stick (fingers work too but they tend to hate nearly-boiling water) for a couple of minutes, then make the imprint.

 

For 2-D castings, one imprint is of course sufficient.

 

For 3-D castings, wait until the first part of the mould is cold before repeating the operation for the second part of the mould (otherwise the two parts can have a tendency to slightly "fuse" together which creates a mess). Don't forget to make a few guiding points/holes so the two parts can be correctly aligned.

 

Apart from getting all the details out, aligning the two parts of the mould is where you'll also have trouble (depending on the quality of the guiding points/holes of course, mine were not so good).

 

Then, wait until the GS or milliput (or a mix) has completely cured. Don't try to have a quick look too early, it ruins the casting. So I tend to do it in the evening and leave it aside until the next day.

 

For some parts, it might be "easier" to find the appropriate bits from a bits shop (subject to price, availability, shipping costs).

 

Besides a few torsos, so far I have mostly used bluestuff to replicate some parts for my bases (imprints of terrain details, most long out of print). 

[GreenScorpion]

Thanks for the useful information :)

 

I am obviously aware of extra difficulty/possible extra cost, but it is mostly intended to provide some variety and customization, as I am not a fan of bits resellers (in the sense of bits from existing kits being sold separately)  and once the UK finally leaves the EU (some day perhaps) there won't be that much variety with 3rd party manufacturers that are EU friendly (my experience with customs is not that good, just don't ask). That said I am looking into options to add that variety on my own somehow, in case I am not able to find adequate variety elsewhere in the future.

[Sword Brother Adelard]

I used some quite extensively recently to reproduce the Black Templar vehicle details from the Land Raider and Rhino upgrade sprue, and Templarify my Repulsor. It did that all really well.

[Elzender]

I managed to copy a FW head once with it, not a perfect cast but quite suprised at the amount of detail I got out of it. As for 2-part molds, I saw a long time ago people recommending to use Legos or other building blocks to create a well to fit the bluestuff mold in, so that it makes it easier to align, and it can really help. It is not completely foolproof as per my own experience :D but it certainly helps aligning the two parts and making it sit leveled. Moreover, you can also push the mould with blocks to exert a strong and even pressure on it.

[Ciler]

I was browsing through some webstores when I found this blue stuff to make reusable molds.

 

http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/reusable-blue-stuff/8-blue-stuff-mold-8-bars.html#

 

Has anyone had any experience with this or similar materials?

I was considering experimenting with it to make some torsos/legs to help me reduce the amount of arms stuck in my bits box. I had been thinking of experimenting with sculpting those parts (I am far from being a good sculptor but still it might be fun), which for a large amount would likely lead to strange variations. Likely if I sculpt a few variations and then create a mold it might be more feasible.

Any thoughts on that?

I have used the stuff quite extensively as well to cast the kopeshes for my terminators, the mutant arm for one of my spawns (from a genestealer), and the tank decorations for my TS army : http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/354207-the-sekhmet-marches-thousand-sons-in-pre-heresy-colours/

 

It does flat stuff really well indeed.

 

One note, the greenstuffworld product is quite expensive, you may be able to source the same material cheaper in your local craft store under the brand Oyumaru.

[Arkhanist]

For torsos, I'd recommend doing the same as the plastic parts you cast from, I.e.do it as two halves with 2 separate blue stuff moulds, using something flat to level off the blue stuff at the 'middle' of the torso so you have a hardy level to fill up to, then glue the two parts together once set as usual (sanding to fit flush as needed)

 

The biggest problem I've found getting sharp detail is making sure the green stuff is pressed in hard enough, which is much easier when you dont have to put a ball near blind into a 2 part mould. A little vaseline in the mould can also help the green stuff spread into the detail.

 

You can also do this with a 2 part mould; fill the first half and let it set fairly stiff, then fill the 2nd half, pressed in hard, and then put the 2nd mould on. You'll likely end up with more mould line, but I find I get better detail for 3d parts.

 

Finally, also agreeing the blue stuff needs to be super soft to get a good impression, it cools down really fast. Make a mistake, just back in the hot water and try again.

[Imren]

I got a better result with milliput and magicsculpt, they are a bit softer than green stuff and therefore get into the nooks and crannies better and require less pressure to fill the mould completely compared to green stuff.

[Grotsmasha]

i know BCK experimented with some DG stuff with this, I'll see if I can dig it out of his thread....

[GreenScorpion]

Thanks for all the inputs :)

I have thinking about making 2 part torsos, like those of the tempestus for example. That way it is easier to cast and I just have to ensure they are flat enough before joining the front and rear parts of the torsos.

It is actually the legs that I am bit more worried though. Will have to think about a good way to separate those as well, but I guess it might depend on the actual posture.

[Marshal Vespasian]

For those who have cast shoulder Icons from blue stuff moulds with milliput, I was going to do this for my fists, but turns out, when its dry it doesnt necessarily align to the shoulderpad all that well. Any solutions for this? Maybe actually cast it on the shoulderpad already? Or can I remove it after some three to four hours from the mould and have the miliput Still be Kind of flexible?

[Imren]

For those who have cast shoulder Icons from blue stuff moulds with milliput, I was going to do this for my fists, but turns out, when its dry it doesnt necessarily align to the shoulderpad all that well. Any solutions for this? Maybe actually cast it on the shoulderpad already? Or can I remove it after some three to four hours from the mould and have the miliput Still be Kind of flexible?

 

 

When you dry fit the cast icon onto the shoulder pad, check where the surfaces misalign and carefully sand the surface with sandpaper or those soft abrasive pads. Or you could also abrade away the material carefully with a smooth sander tip on a Dremel (at low speed).

 

Minor misalignments you could also overcome and "hide" by putting the icon onto the shoulder pad with putty. Make some scrape marks or drill with  1mm drill bit very shallow holes 0,3-0,5 mm deep, and then using a softer stickier putty (Tamiya or Vallejo modelling putties) you stick the icon on the shoulder pad. The shallow holes will make the putty stick to the surface better. also the putty will hide the misalignments and gaps along the curved surface of the icon and shoulder pad interface. This will only work if you have minor misalignments.

[Marshal Vespasian]

Nice, thank you Imren!

I was going to get some vallejo putty anyways (dont get Tamiya as readily in my town is the only reason why). I feel like I might need it for all that heresy resin anyways.

My previous approach of cutting it even with my modelling knife led to me switching to decals.

Edited December 10, 2019 by Marshal Vespasian

[thewarriorhunter]

I've done quite a bit of work with the blue stuff. I actually cast all of the large shoulder pads for my Cataphractii with them because I have problems. Casting two parts is possible and works out well if you create divots to help align the parts. Something like this:

 

 

I used milliput for all of my pads because once hardened it can be sanded and filed to be cleaned up. I even stuck a piece of brass etch on the shoulder pads and the detail came out really well.

 

For the heating process I kept a small pot of water on my stop and dropped chunks of the blue stuff in there. Let it get soft and then start working with it. It will be hot so be prepared for that but it cools rapidly. Make one half of the mold and create some raised areas to act as your divot. When that has cooled add a second piece for your other half. Mash them together to help reduce the chance of slippage and let cool.

 

After ~30 minutes the blue stuff should be adequately cooled and you can pop the mold apart. Add the medium and try to get just slightly too much. I rub a little water onto the inside of the mold with my finger to help with movement and then place the clay and mash the mold together again. You may get a little bit of the medium squeeze out the sides which is fine. Let that cure, crack it open carefully so you don't break your cast, and clean it up.

 

Here's some pictures of my cataphractii: