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Skywrath's Dark Angels


Skywrath

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  • 2 weeks later...

Squad of Inceptors complete! Next up it will be another squad, and Master Lazarus himself. With regards to the last inceptor with the red of his eyesocket coming out ever so slightly, fixing that as we speak. Also need to do decals, but without further ado..

 

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Edited by Knight-Master Skywrath
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Primaris Lieutenant/Sergeant complete. Started off very well with him, and I thought to myself, why not give him the gold business. Gold accents in my army denote a member of importance. Already got some fluff to go with him to complement his accents, however still waiting on Lazarus. The other 3 plasma inceptors should be done soon.

 


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Edited by Knight-Master Skywrath
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Nice work Skywrath - the gold really makes the sergeant pop, especially on the backpack. He might benefit from some colour on his kneepad, just to break up the green a little more as well. Bone would look best, probably.

 

One thing you might want to try as well is to add some bits of cork to the base as well - undercoat black and then dry brush up with grey to make it look like rocks, and then put the snow effects on top. It can add some variety to the base, and also means you don't have to go through the snow effects as quickly.

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The 6 inceptors are complete! The Dreadwing list I have planned is looking to be nearly done. Next up it will be Lazarus, well whenever he arrives. I realize I might have been a bit too zealous on the nuln oil shading - I prefer my miniatures to look glossy, but not oily as the sergeant turned out.

 

Disclaimer: I know I'm not that good compared to others such as Bevulf and Elmo, this paintlog is mostly just a way of expressing my pleasure of what it means to play, or even be a Dark Angel. I try to paint to my best of my ability though.

 

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Edited by Knight-Master Skywrath
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You should be very proud of your work! Not everyone can paint to golden daemon standard, the key is you finished them. My pile of shame is deserving of the name for sure!

+1 to this. As long as you're enjoying the painting, that's all that matters. Keep it up, they're looking good. And we all improve the more we paint.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not a Dark Angel in the pure sense of the word. This is a GK brother-captain who at one point was a master in the Dark Angels. Inspiration overtook me, and I asked myself, why not give him Dark Angel weapons too. Still working on the fluff behind him, will post once I finished painting him. 

 

The cloak was a real annoyance to get on, but I'm pretty proud of the spear mix with a force halberd. I think with a bit of paint, that glue "line" should dissapear. Likewise, all the accents that should be red, I'll paint green in honour of the Dark Angels (parchment wax, tabard, cloak, iconography). Also my first attempt at magnetisation (if anyone plays GK then magnetisation is a pretty big must). Either way, here are my first attempts:

 

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Master Lazarus assembled. Note the custom winged helmet (well not really custom, but assembled that way), and the custom power sword. Originally I wanted to give him the custom sword that currently my RW Champ is using, but that was the next best thing. Removing the sculpt shavings as we speak, and onto then painting. Then to try making a list where he doesn't get outshined by Azrael.. For the Lion! (In spoiler)

 

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Did you manage to get any washes down on Lazarus? I found that instantly improved my painting by about 50%.  Never talk your work down, you've put love and effort into that and you should be proud :)

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I did, the green bits are shaded with nuln oil, as well as the cloak. Used seraphim sepia on the golden bits. When it came to the tabard, I used nuln oil on white, but really disliked it, so I went over it again with the corax white, and called it a day. 

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Nice work!

 

A common trick with painting white is to.....not paint white. But seriously, if you go for a very light grey or light cream colour (like, mostly white but with a little of grey or cream mixed in), the eye will think it’s white when it’s not, but it means that you can then highlight with pure white and still get the gradations in colour). The GW colour Ulthuan grey is great for this - it looks white, but it’s actually a very very light grey

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Nice work!

 

A common trick with painting white is to.....not paint white. But seriously, if you go for a very light grey or light cream colour (like, mostly white but with a little of grey or cream mixed in), the eye will think it’s white when it’s not, but it means that you can then highlight with pure white and still get the gradations in colour). The GW colour Ulthuan grey is great for this - it looks white, but it’s actually a very very light grey

 

That is definitely worth considering. Does Rakath Flesh work as well as Ulthuan Grey?

 

After consideration, I'm going to touch up lazarus and all his inconsistencies that he has. I'll have more images later, after I get over whatever plague Nurgle has put on me.

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Nice work!

 

A common trick with painting white is to.....not paint white. But seriously, if you go for a very light grey or light cream colour (like, mostly white but with a little of grey or cream mixed in), the eye will think it’s white when it’s not, but it means that you can then highlight with pure white and still get the gradations in colour). The GW colour Ulthuan grey is great for this - it looks white, but it’s actually a very very light grey

That is definitely worth considering. Does Rakath Flesh work as well as Ulthuan Grey?

 

After consideration, I'm going to touch up lazarus and all his inconsistencies that he has. I'll have more images later, after I get over whatever plague Nurgle has put on me.

I wouldn't recommend  Rakarth Flesh as a basis for a white. As it's very much a pallid, pale skintone colour. I've used it on my Cataphractii here for their pteruges:

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However, a trick I've learned for white, is if you're starting from a pure White (in the above Cataphractii, Corax White was used on the pads), if you shade with Nuln Oil and highlight/layer with an off-white (Celestra Grey) it works very well to then highlight with White Scar. I skipped the Celestra Grey on the Cataphractii as the wings on their pads were small enough that White Scar was sufficient, but on bigger areas like the robes, Celestra Grey over the all-over shaded white as a Layer is very useful.

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Nice work!

 

A common trick with painting white is to.....not paint white. But seriously, if you go for a very light grey or light cream colour (like, mostly white but with a little of grey or cream mixed in), the eye will think it’s white when it’s not, but it means that you can then highlight with pure white and still get the gradations in colour). The GW colour Ulthuan grey is great for this - it looks white, but it’s actually a very very light grey

That is definitely worth considering. Does Rakath Flesh work as well as Ulthuan Grey?

 

After consideration, I'm going to touch up lazarus and all his inconsistencies that he has. I'll have more images later, after I get over whatever plague Nurgle has put on me.

I wouldn't recommend  Rakarth Flesh as a basis for a white. As it's very much a pallid, pale skintone colour. I've used it on my Cataphractii here for their pteruges:

ct0bhbe.jpg

nBn0DU0.jpg

 

However, a trick I've learned for white, is if you're starting from a pure White (in the above Cataphractii, Corax White was used on the pads), if you shade with Nuln Oil and highlight/layer with an off-white (Celestra Grey) it works very well to then highlight with White Scar. I skipped the Celestra Grey on the Cataphractii as the wings on their pads were small enough that White Scar was sufficient, but on bigger areas like the robes, Celestra Grey over the all-over shaded white as a Layer is very useful.

 

 

Excellent work on the Catphractii, my friend! So I would shade first, Corax White them, and highlight with Celestra Gray? In that order? Wouldn't that lose the shading in the process? 

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Nice work!

 

A common trick with painting white is to.....not paint white. But seriously, if you go for a very light grey or light cream colour (like, mostly white but with a little of grey or cream mixed in), the eye will think it’s white when it’s not, but it means that you can then highlight with pure white and still get the gradations in colour). The GW colour Ulthuan grey is great for this - it looks white, but it’s actually a very very light grey

That is definitely worth considering. Does Rakath Flesh work as well as Ulthuan Grey?

 

After consideration, I'm going to touch up lazarus and all his inconsistencies that he has. I'll have more images later, after I get over whatever plague Nurgle has put on me.

I wouldn't recommend  Rakarth Flesh as a basis for a white. As it's very much a pallid, pale skintone colour. I've used it on my Cataphractii here for their pteruges:

ct0bhbe.jpg

nBn0DU0.jpg

 

However, a trick I've learned for white, is if you're starting from a pure White (in the above Cataphractii, Corax White was used on the pads), if you shade with Nuln Oil and highlight/layer with an off-white (Celestra Grey) it works very well to then highlight with White Scar. I skipped the Celestra Grey on the Cataphractii as the wings on their pads were small enough that White Scar was sufficient, but on bigger areas like the robes, Celestra Grey over the all-over shaded white as a Layer is very useful.

Excellent work on the Catphractii, my friend! So I would shade first, Corax White them, and highlight with Celestra Gray? In that order? Wouldn't that lose the shading in the process?

Thanks!

 

And you have it a little backwards. What I meant is this:

 

Base Corax White > Apply Shade (or use Contrast Apothecary White) all over Corax White > Layer Celestra Grey (avoiding recesses) > highlight White Scar

 

Basically, the shade should only be visible in the recesses of the folds, the Celestra Grey and White Scar are highlight layers.

 

I might have worded it a bit weirdly. I'll just blame it on the fact that I'm still drinking my morning tea :lol:

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Ah I see. Will definitely pick those paints up as soon as I get the chance. And with a cape that is non-white (let's assume red) what colours would you use to do the above?

 

For reference, I have Mephiston Red, Screamer Pink. The two shades I have are Druuchi Violet, and Nuln Oil. I have Seraphim Sepia as well, however I'm not convinced it's the shade of choice, especially seeing how I pretty much coat my entire miniature (as far as greenwing are concerned) in Nuln Oil. For terminator armor, I'm slowly learning to selectively shade areas with mixed results. In the end I just end up creating a mess selectively shading, and just don't bother with it at all.   

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Ah I see. Will definitely pick those paints up as soon as I get the chance. And with a cape that is non-white (let's assume red) what colours would you use to do the above?

 

For reference, I have Mephiston Red, Screamer Pink. The two shades I have are Druuchi Violet, and Nuln Oil. I have Seraphim Sepia as well, however I'm not convinced it's the shade of choice, especially seeing how I pretty much coat my entire miniature (as far as greenwing are concerned) in Nuln Oil. For terminator armor, I'm slowly learning to selectively shade areas with mixed results. In the end I just end up creating a mess selectively shading, and just don't bother with it at all.   

Ah, red cloaks? I've figured out a good way of them:

 

Mephiston Red > Carroburg Crimson > Mephiston Red > Evil Sunz Scarlet > Wild Rider Red

 

I use Carroburg Crimson instead of other colours because as a Dark Red shade, it keeps the reds rich and red, while darkening them down without changing the tone Nuln Oil/Agrax Earthshade would.

 

Seraphim Sepia is good for Deathwing bone however. The recess shade/select area shading is actually how GW recommended doing it in their tutorial, see here:

 

 

I have another example model regarding the red cloaks, in my Night Lords Chaos Lord:

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Watched that video previously, however been having some pretty mixed results with that technique - I'll just chalk it up to lack of practice. Will take aboard your recommendation though - so I assume you would shade the tabard in selectively, rather than all over.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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