What is a good spray primer?

[Beatnik cryptek]

With our new enforced social distancing I may do me some paintin'. Please forgo telling me this is an old question coz I know and recommend a good black apray primaris, I mean primer. I'd hope there's one commonly available and not 20$ a can...

 

PS leaning towards krylon fusion right now after a side by side comparison on youtube, anyone here use it?

Edited March 21, 2020 by Beatnik cryptek

[Jalgar]

Personally I felt Fusion was a bit thick. If you are in the US O’Reilly Auto Parts carries an inexpensive primer called Bright Touch that I found works very good. It is 3 or 4 dollars a can and I use it for all black primer needs.

[NovemberIX]

Second that opinion about krylon, with the addendum that it is good primer, I just feel it sprays heavy. For a great primer I always recommend Duplicolor Sandable Primer, also found at O'Reilly and other auto parts or hardware shops. Great coverage, durable, and dries thin to keep the detail.

[Fajita Fan]

I use Rustoleoum from Walmart for $4 a can. The aluminum works great for metals and lets you shade down to your heart’s content, it’s brighter than Leadbelcher but a thinned coat of contrast gray looks nice over it. Because it covers so well with one pass and goes on so thin I’m actually using it as my new primer for a lot of stuff, not just bare metals. Layer paints go over it really nicely.

 

This is what it looks like straight from the can.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2ZsdS1FW1L/?igshid=tynwy0nlno6b

 

I also like their flat black and their white is less annoying to use than most other whites (which are all pretty terrible). I’m actually stripping my Deathwatch primed with Vallejo dark gray so I can spray them with flat black. Their glossy paint can be hard to paint over as the surface becomes very hydrophobic and their Ultra Matte line is awful for minis, it does on way too thick and the lighter colors don’t coat evenly enough (meant for lawn furniture I think). I only used a can of Krylon fusion once on something else and it seemed too thick for minis.

[Beatnik cryptek]

I use Rustoleoum from Walmart for $4 a can. The aluminum works great for metals and lets you shade down to your heart’s content, it’s brighter than Leadbelcher but a thinned coat of contrast gray looks nice over it. Because it covers so well with one pass and goes on so thin I’m actually using it as my new primer for a lot of stuff, not just bare metals. Layer paints go over it really nicely.

This is what it looks like straight from the can.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2ZsdS1FW1L/?igshid=tynwy0nlno6b

I also like their flat black and their white is less annoying to use than most other whites (which are all pretty terrible). I’m actually stripping my Deathwatch primed with Vallejo dark gray so I can spray them with flat black. Their glossy paint can be hard to paint over as the surface becomes very hydrophobic and their Ultra Matte line is awful for minis, it does on way too thick and the lighter colors don’t coat evenly enough (meant for lawn furniture I think). I only used a can of Krylon fusion once on something else and it seemed too thick for minis.

Hmmm, maybe a good base coat for necrons? Would you say that was a fair assessment? Btw can I trouble you for a picture of the can you used on the fighter model? Edited March 22, 2020 by Beatnik cryptek

[Fajita Fan]

Yessir. https://www.target.com/p/rust-oluem-painter-39-s-touch-2x-ultra-cover-aluminum-spray-paint-12oz/-/A-75575325?ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&fndsrc=tgtao&CPNG=PLA_Home%2BImprovement%2BShopping&adgroup=SC_Home%2BImprovement&LID=700000001170770pgs&network=g&device=c&location=9008133&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI94LKq-2u6AIVDRQMCh1Q_wutEAQYASABEgIWafD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

The best part is that it covers so evenly with one coat, the metallic flake must sit really flat and because I don't have all the gaps in coverage the way I do with white.  

 

I would be careful with the shiny one and the shiny gold:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Silver-Rust-Oleum-American-Accents-2X-Ultra-Cover-Metallic-Spray-Paint-11-oz/223482480?selected=true

 

I used that on some test pieces to see if I could get away with using the gold on Custodes and AT titans but I couldn't get washes to sit right, they kept beading up.  What's weird is that I used the shiny gold on some 3d printed Custodes vehicles scaled for AT and then paint/washes went on just fine.  

 

[thewarriorhunter]

I like they Rustomleum Camo Black. I've switched to that as my main primer. It's pretty flat and the paint sticks to it well.

[CMDR_Welles]

I will be a dissenting voice here I think. I've used a LOT of primers in my 30 years in the hobby, and the one thing I came to realize is that I prefer primers that are meant for miniatures. They are usually formulated to go on thinner than a general purpose Spray, or an Automotive spray. They also are less likely to contain chemicals that could damage polystyrene, like self-etching or the like. It wasn't so much of a problem when miniatures were lead or white metal, but I've ruined miniatures a few times to learn my lesson. It's just not worth the risk in my opinion. 

That being said, if you go with a hobby primer, go with ones that are easily and readily available in your area. Testors isn't too bad, Tamiya as well. These more mostly for modeling, so tend to be a little more glossy than I prefer. They might be easier to come by at places like local hobby stores, or chains like Hobby Lobby or Michaels.

 

I've been using Army Painter sprays for 10 or so years now. In general they are pretty decent, but you really need to be extra careful with them. The recommended spraying conditions on the can are more like requirements. They are pretty temperamental to heat and humidity, so keep that in mind. They really are not noob friendly primers. 

 

P3 primers aren't too bad, but I found them to be too soft for my liking. 

And then we get to the 1000 lbs Gorilla in the room: Citadel. Yes, they are stupidly expensive, ridiculously so... I know, and I've not used them very often for a long time because of it. However, they do have some things going for them. One, just about every game store carries them so availability isn't an issue. Honestly, they are kind of forgiving, and easy to use. For those new to hobby, its a good fit truth be told. I just recently purchased some of the new Grey Seer and Wraithbone primers, and I got to say, they are some of the best rattle can primers I've ever used. 

 

This is my 2 cents. Thing is with the hobby, no matter who you ask, they are all going to have their own opinions on tools, brushes, paints, and primers. You need to find what works for you and use that. Its going to take some time and experimenting, but once you find what works, stick with it and you'll eventually find it. Hope this helps.

[Beatnik cryptek]

Whatever priner you use just remember three things:

 

1.Test it on a piece of sprue first one with some words or numbers molded on it to see how is treats deatil, adheres, does it melt the plastic and if it sticks to the plastic.

 

2.Test it on a piece of sprue first one with some words or numbers molded on it to see how is treats deatil, adheres, does it melt the plastic and if it sticks to the plastic.

 

3.Test it on a piece of sprue first one with some words or numbers molded on it to see how is treats deatil, adheres, does it melt the plastic and if it sticks to the plastic.

[PeteySödes]

I'll be that guy here. If you buy the cheapo airbrush/compressor kit and a single bottle of badger stylenrez it would pay for itself in ~4 mini rattlecans and you'd never have a bad prime again...

[Beatnik cryptek]

Sorry guys, but an airbrushis just getting to a level I'm not interested in going./

[thewarriorhunter]

Sorry guys, but an airbrushis just getting to a level I'm not interested in going./

Totally understandable.

 

I've not gone the airbrush primer route because it's much quicker for me to rattle can prime. If I break out the airbrush it's because I know I've got the time to paint so I'd rather paint than prime.

[Xenith]

I use standard GW, Chaos black, corax white, now wraithbone. 

 

Tried army painter and they go on thick. OK for tanks, but feel they'll ruin anything with fine details.

[Ovidius Incertus]

Ditto the recommendation for Duplicolor sandable primer, if you're in the US (or wherever else it's sold).

 

Although I use Stynlrez for the airbrush, I try to spray prime most of my models with Duplicolor, especially if they're resin.  No way I'd use anything but a lacquer based primer for Forgeworld with their impossible-to-remove-after-twenty-washings mold release.  With Duplicolor, I see absolutely no loss of detail.  Smooth coats.  I use black and gray colors.

[Venerable Jazzman]

 

I used that on some test pieces to see if I could get away with using the gold on Custodes and AT titans but I couldn't get washes to sit right, they kept beading up.  What's weird is that I used the shiny gold on some 3d printed Custodes vehicles scaled for AT and then paint/washes went on just fine.  

 

Put a drop of Fairy/dish-washing soap on your pallet, touch the brush in it, into a tiny drop of water and then your wash. It'll break down the surface tension on the wash and let it flow.. No idea why it happens on metallics sometimes, but that works for me.

[Fajita Fan]

 

 

I used that on some test pieces to see if I could get away with using the gold on Custodes and AT titans but I couldn't get washes to sit right, they kept beading up.  What's weird is that I used the shiny gold on some 3d printed Custodes vehicles scaled for AT and then paint/washes went on just fine.  

 

Put a drop of Fairy/dish-washing soap on you pallet, touch the brush in it, into a tiny drop of water and then your wash. It'll break down the surface tension on the wash and let it flow.. No idea why it happens on metallics sometimes, but that works for me.

 

I had wondered about that, I've also heard of hitting a hydrophobic surface with a coat of clear matte spray to help the next layer go on a little easier.  

[The_Chaplain]

The new Vallejo hobby paint spray primers are quite nice (the only one I've used and am not impressed with is the yellow).

[Fajita Fan]

I found a light yellow satin primer from Rustoleoum, nothing like Imperial Fists or Lamenters yellow, but it might be good enough to lay down a base for a brushed on pass of Averland. I’m starting to think that contrast yellow over a white primer with yellow layer paint over that might be a decent way to get tabletop yellow without 9 coats. Because I’m stupid I decided to strip my red primer BA army and redo them as Lamenters so we’ll see how it goes.

[battle captain corpus]

I’ve been using car primer for years. Specifically red or grey PLASTIC trim primer. I’m pretty sure normal car primer has an adverse effect on minis...though I’ve never had that I’d steer clear just in case.

 

Luckily most of my minis are red so I can paint straight over too.

 

BCC