Gap Filliing shoulder pads?

[Inquisitor Eisenhorn]

Folks, I've been sitting on my Sister of Battle box with about 4 Sisters assembled, after quickly burning out trying to green-stuff th gaps on the shoulder pads.  

 

Show me an easier way.  Please.

[Dread]

Can you post a pic? I assembled all of mine with no gaps, so i would like to see what's happening.

[No Foes Remain]

I had a similar problem with the power packs on the Mk3 marines, I used the liquid green stuff and the GW texture tool to just spread it on then after ir dries I just file it down.

[The_Chaplain]

Vallejo plastic putty-- between its condistency, applicator nozzle and overall smooth finish, its a godsend for gap filling. Once dry you can scrape any excess off with a toothpick Edited April 10, 2020 by The_Chaplain

[Montford]

I also use Vellajo putty for filling gaps which are not load bearing. So simple. No mixing like you need to do with green stuff and much less expensive. I put it on then use a damp Q-tip, old brush or even a dampened finger tip to smooth it. It takes paint just fine. If I can't find any Vellajo then I use Testor's as they make a similar putty. 

[Inquisitor Eisenhorn]

Guys, this is my results with tamiya putty.   

Before priming

After priming

So you can see, I'm getting garbage results.  I'm using a hard pointed tamiya q-tip to push and remove the putty, but it dries so fast it's impossible to do this cleanly.  Not only that, but you can see it didn't even work!  This is the same stupid result I get with liquid green stuff, and 2-part green stuff as well.  Obviously I'm doing something wrong, but I'm so frustrated right now I want to throw these against the wall and go for a run.  If anyone wants to upload a video or proper gap filling technique since I'm apparently the only person who struggles with this, I'd appreciate it, because youtube tutorials don't help.

 

RRRRRRRRGH!

[Dusktiger]

i just use gap filling CA glue.  either the normal 5-15 sec curing time, or the extra thick 10-30 sec curing time stuff when its gonna be a thicker gap.  the glue will fill the gaps out as you push the parts together, and then you can prime it without any lines visible.

 

 

these are the bottles to look for. wont bother with brand name, cause they sell under multiple names (that silver spot on the label is for companies to put clear text labels with their "brand name" onto the bottles)

you want the purple one for normal gap filling.  and IIRC, i think the pink in the back beside it is the extra thick.  DO NOT buy the blue; its instant 1-3 sec curing, and its runny as water, so it's extremely difficult to control.

 

i haven't tried the IC-Gel one yet, so i dont know what its like to use.

 

if you cant find that stuff, then look for this brand, and try to get the green bottle.  This brand is fairly easy to find on most hobby shop shelves.  I've been using the green one on BSS shoulder pads and it hides the gap pretty well if you line the whole pad on one side.  just pretend your chaulking a window or door when you apply the glue, and you wont have any problems with gaps when it cures.

[Montford]

Guys, this is my results with tamiya putty.   

Before priming

After priming

So you can see, I'm getting garbage results.  I'm using a hard pointed tamiya q-tip to push and remove the putty, but it dries so fast it's impossible to do this cleanly.  Not only that, but you can see it didn't even work!  This is the same stupid result I get with liquid green stuff, and 2-part green stuff as well.  Obviously I'm doing something wrong, but I'm so frustrated right now I want to throw these against the wall and go for a run.  If anyone wants to upload a video or proper gap filling technique since I'm apparently the only person who struggles with this, I'd appreciate it, because youtube tutorials don't help.

 

RRRRRRRRGH!

 

Not wet enough. Dampen a q-tip or even an old brush. You can smooth it out and remove any putty from areas where you do not want it.