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Can you use 91% isopropyl alcohol on resin or metal minis?


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A really sharp knife and a lot of patience, in my experience. It's an extremely suboptimal situation and will probably require minor repairs to one or the other, or both. I still have several plastic minis that need removing from resin bases and I'm putting it off because it sucks.

 

As for using IPA on resin - you can, but it will soften it very quickly, and depending on the type of resin it's very likely to damage the mini. If you can get it (I'm not sure where you are) Biostrip20 works on resin and won't do any damage as long as you don't leave it on there too long (I use it in half hour increments, but I've seen people leave it on Forge World resin for an hour without it softening).

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Any tip on what to use if you're seeking to remove plastic models glued to resin bases before soaking the plastic mini?

 

Try putting the model in a freezer for a couple of days and then carefully (as in be aware where you hold the model) try to prise them loose as suggested by Urauloth.

 

 

As for using IPA on resin - you can, but it will soften it very quickly, and depending on the type of resin it's very likely to damage the mini. If you can get it (I'm not sure where you are) Biostrip20 works on resin and won't do any damage as long as you don't leave it on there too long (I use it in half hour increments, but I've seen people leave it on Forge World resin for an hour without it softening).

 

Exactly this. I once soaked a FW titan in IPA without thinking and it took over a year for the resin to regain its hardness once removed (it was left to soak for 48 hours). I second the recommendation for Biostrip 20, which can be purchased directly from the manufacturer or from Element Games here in the UK. Leave plastic models to soak for about 12 hours and the paint will come off very easily with an old toothbrush, plus a rinse under the tap. Resin can be soaked too but I'd suggest no more than an hour to start with and then test to see how easily the paint comes off. For resin bases that should be plenty as there's generally less detail than a figure and it should be relatively simple to remove with a toothbrush etc.

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With regards IPA and resin, reading the above is funny because I wash resin 99.9% IPA and is often soaked for a good 10 minutes - drip dry and towel down with an airbrush to finish drying it and it's sorted.  But yeah, long periods of soaking will do very different things compared to 10 minutes, soaking plastic minis in Dettol for example makes them go rubbery (that's to say nothing of the smell until you undercoat them again).

 

I keep meaning to grab a mini or three to see how long it takes to strip some paint off with IPA, but I've yet to try it since getting the stuff.  I think I might have a resin model to test at some point.

 

I used to use cellulose thinners on metal minis, but you can get away with most things on metal minis.

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I keep meaning to grab a mini or three to see how long it takes to strip some paint off with IPA, but I've yet to try it since getting the stuff. I think I might have a resin model to test at some point.

Give it five minutes and have a go. If it's not enough or not all layers are removed, back in the tub. Repeat as necessary.

 

Or just chuck them in, forget about them for six months and when you come back the paint barely needs touching! Doesn't hurt the plastic at all, either.

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I keep meaning to grab a mini or three to see how long it takes to strip some paint off with IPA, but I've yet to try it since getting the stuff. I think I might have a resin model to test at some point.

Give it five minutes and have a go. If it's not enough or not all layers are removed, back in the tub. Repeat as necessary.

 

Or just chuck them in, forget about them for six months and when you come back the paint barely needs touching! Doesn't hurt the plastic at all, either.

Just don't do this for resin minis as at best they will be floppy at worse they will be gone XD

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If you can get it in your local area "Simple Green" or its slightly cheaper cousin "Mean Green". Both work wonderfully on all three materials when combined with a tooth brush.

I left a forgeworld resin Death Korps Commissar in a simple green dip for over a month one time. (* I totally forgot i had models in the container at the time.) Didn't hurt the resin stall thankfully (i don't recommend this however). I recommend few days or a week, you can even try brushing the model throughout its dip time as this will help weaken the paints bond.

 

Patience is your friend and a thorough, long brushing will successfully remove all but the most deeply recessed specks.

 

* I later left a pewter Njal Stormcaller in the same dish for over a year... Or maybe more, not sure. Sealed shut on a shelf and forgotten about because of a move that left my models here. When i discovered my error the simple green had vanished, the sides of the dish had split causing the lid to pop open and there was a lot of white discoloration to the plastic container.

Edited by Wulf Vengis
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My fellblade turned out fine with rubbing alcohol, and I've even managed to correct a slight warping in the right gun barrel that wouldn't cooperate with me otherwise. Be careful and be quick, use a smoker's toothbrush to get rid of the paint on large, flat areas quickly to preserve the model as best you can but it does work, at least on large models.
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  • 4 weeks later...

I have found that Isopropanol will soften superglue and on metal minis, I have found that they can come apart when soaked as the superglue breaks down.

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