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Removing (as much as possible not 100%) Nuln Oil Gloss


sibomots

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I made a mistake.

 

I picked up a Nuln Oil *Gloss* jar, and wiped the models with it.  

 

I got perplexed at the time why the model was excessively glossy. 

I thought at the time it was just because that's what Nuln Oil is supposed to look like.

 

I didn't realize at the time that I used the *Gloss* version.  I had both kinds available but  misread the jar.

 

Is there a technique to "wash" off (not 100% off but diminish the effect as much as possible) after the Nuln Oil Gloss has dried?   

There are decals under it in some places.

 

Or is this a "don't do that again" situation  and it's done? 

 

 

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I'm assuming you don't want to remove all the paint and start again due to the decals? I'm struggling to think of a way which will just remove the top layer of paint - isopropyl alcohol will remove paint, but it will very likely strip it back to the plastic. I know Vallejo Airbrush Thinner on a cotton bud can remove dried paint up to about a day after application (in a similar manner to going over oil paints with white spirits)...

 

If you just don't like the glossy finish, you could try painting over it with Lahmian Medium or paint/spray it matt/satin varnish (depending on taste).

Edited by Firedrake Cordova
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I'm assuming you don't want to remove all the paint and start again due to the decals? I'm struggling to think of a way which will just remove the top layer of paint - isopropyl alcohol will remove paint, but it will very likely strip it back to the plastic. I know Vallejo Airbrush Thinner on a cotton bud can remove dried paint up to about a day after application (in a similar manner to going over oil paints with white spirits)...

 

If you just don't like the glossy finish, you could try painting over it with Lahmian Medium or paint/spray it matt/satin varnish (depending on taste).

 

That might work.  A clean cotton swab with a medium that can de-gloss some of the surfaces.   Yea, I guess no point in trying to remove a layer of Nuln Oil Gloss.    

 

I think I will experiment with that on a test model.

 

Note to self: Put Label on Nuln Oil jars.   

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hit it with some dull coat.  Airbrush or stipple on and let each coat dry fully and check finish. you can calm down the shine with a little work.  Liquitex archival matte varnish comes in big bottles for very cheap I recommend highly.  Often mixes into paint well and can be used to make non shiny glazes and other cool blends. Once acrylic is dry it comes off in sheets.  I do not recommend attempting to remove the nuln (acrylic wash) oil unless you just want to strip the model. 

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I just remember that I've done this also, or gotten a glossy effect from a non-gloss wash due to not shaking it. The gloss was only in the deep recesses, and I got rid of it by going over the glossy bits, neatly, with the original paint. If you find the recesses glossy, put a but of matte nuln into them before trying to strip back the wash. 

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The active ingredients of glasses cleaner is dishwashing detergent and/or diluted IPA, i.e. rubbing alcohol.

 

Both are weak paint strippers; 99% IPA is a stronger paint stripper, which is why it's diluted wiuth water to 50% or so. This shouldn't harm plastic models.

 

They can work on a recently applied acrylic wash without significantly affecting the underlying layers if you're lucky, but once it's fully dried it's chemically bonded, and trying to strip one layer will invariably take off the lower layers off as well.

 

Since the problem appears to be that gloss nuln oil was used instead of normal nuln oil, it's just the gloss effect that needs neutralising rather than removing the wash entirely. Normal nuln oil is the same as gloss nuln oil, it just has matting agent added so the result is a satin finish rather than gloss - this is done in all the non-gloss GW paint.

 

A satin varnish coat, or a coat of lahmian medium will end up with the same result as if normal nuln oil had been used instead, without affecting the colour - mostly matt, but a little bit reflective. Lahmian medium is basically transparent GW paint without any coloured pigment in it, and includes some matting agent, so it will give a satiny finish like normal GW paint/washes does - used on it's own, that's all it does, or it can be mixed into other paint to make them more translucent without affecting other properties, which is quite useful when trying to get a gradual effect for ghostly tints or changing a tentacle from one colour to another. The same thing is generally known as 'liquid matt medium' from other suppliers.

 

A stronger matting effect, such as testors dullcote or vallejo premium matt varnish will be even less reflective, and are also a strong protective varnish as well to protect the paint job overall.

 

So it depends whether you prefer the somewhat satiny finish of normal GW paint, or the more 'flat' matt effect that many people prefer as a final finish as to which type of clear coat you'd use to tamp down the gloss effect of the nuln gloss wash. If you already have a preferred final varnish, you can just use a thin coat of that, and continue to paint any additional work needed. Then optionally do another thin varnish coat to protect that work and match the gloss/satin/matt finish over the model as a whole.

 

Personally, I tend to paint the model up except final metallics, then do the finish finish varnish (vallejo premium matt in my case) to get it all looking similar and protect the paintwork from gaming damage. I then paint final metallic highlights over the top, so you get a more shiny effect to the edges - I find a matt effect is a bit too dull for metals. Similarly, I do a little gloss varnish by brush over any gemstones or lenses, to restore that glossy 'pop'.

Edited by Arkhanist
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