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Painting: + The Imperial Aquilla + (Bone Scheme)


Ranulf

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+++

 

<span style='font-size:17pt;line-height:100%'>Painting Tutorial - Chest Eagles (Bone Scheme)</span>

 

+ Materials Used +

 

+ Bestial Brown

+ Bleached Bone

+ Skull White

+ Water

 

+ Detail Paint Brush (Size 1)

+ Fine Detail Paint Brush (Size 00)

 

+++ Stage Guide +++

 

+ Stage One - Undercoat +

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/stageone.jpg

 

Undercoat: Skull White

Detail Paint Brush (Size 1)

 

Nothing special at this stage, just a simple undercoat.

 

+ Stage Two - Basecoat +

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/stagetwo.jpg

 

Basecoat: Bleached Bone (2:1 Bleached Bone/Water)

Detail Paint Brush (Size 1)

 

Once again, nothing special. The trick is to keep the paint thin - you're not looking for wonderfully smooth and solid colour, just ensure that you've covered all parts of the eagle.

 

+ Stage Three - Wash +

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/stagethree.jpg

 

Wash: Bestial Brown (1:4 Bestial Brown/Water)

Detail Paint Brush (Size 1)

 

At this stage you're looking to define the detail on the eagle. A wash with Bestial Brown should sink into the recesses while leaving the raised detail in a lighter tone.

 

It may take a little time and practice to get this stage right. Too much wash and you'll obscure the detail - too little and you won't get definition. Either way (too much or too little) will make the next stage more difficult.

 

+ Stage Four - Layer +

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/stagefour.jpg

 

Layer: Bleached Bone (3:1 Bleached Bone/Water)

Fine Detail Paint Brush (Size 00)

 

Potentially the most difficult stage in the process, stage four requires you to 'layer' the paint onto all raised areas of the eagle. For this stage, I suggest using a fine detail brush with a precise point - while also keeping the amount of paint on the brush to a minimum. (Too much paint on the brush, particularly when thinned down, can flood onto the miniature messing up the layering)

 

If you do make mistakes, don't stop - continue layering the entire eagle. When the coat is dry, you can return to stage three and apply a wash to the *specific* areas where the mistakes occurred. (individual feathers, eye-sockets on skulls etc)

 

Take the time to get it right at this stage, as even small mistakes will stand out on the finished product. If you're anything like me, those small mistakes left untouched will steal your sanity later on! :)

 

+ Stage Five - 1st Highlight +

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/stagefive.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/stagefive-comparison.jpg

 

1st Highlight: Bleached Bone/Skull White (3:1 ratio)

Fine Detail Paint Brush (Size 00)

 

As indicated the image above, (the red sections) the first highlight involves layering a lighter shade of bone to the areas of the eagle.

 

Most of the principles applied to stage four apply here also, as you will be working with fine detail definition. Take your time and clean up any mistakes before moving on to stage six.

 

+ Stage Six - 2nd Highlight +

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/stagesix.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/stagesix-comparison.jpg

 

2nd Highlight: Bleached Bone/Skull White (2:1 ratio)

Fine Detail Paint Brush (Size 00)

 

As indicated the image above, (the green sections) the second highlight involves layering a even lighter shade of bone to more restricted areas of the eagle.

 

+ Stage Seven - Final Highlight +

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/stageseven.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/stageseven-comparison.jpg

 

Final Highlight: Bleached Bone/Skull White (1:3 ratio)

Fine Detail Paint Brush (Size 00)

 

As indicated the image above, (the blue sections) the final highlight involves layering the lightest shade of bone to the very edges of raised detail on the eagle.

 

+ The Finished Product +

 

...and here's one we put in the oven earlier:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/ran2004/marineA1.jpg

 

:)

 

+++

 

-Ran

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how long on average does it take you to highlight an entire model?

 

I couldn't tell you how long it takes to highlight specifically, but for a RAF mini like this, I usually spend 6-8 hours painting in total. (A little less when batch-painting)

 

-Ran

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how long on average does it take you to highlight an entire model?

 

I couldn't tell you how long it takes to highlight specifically, but for a RAF mini like this, I usually spend 6-8 hours painting in total. (A little less when batch-painting)

 

-Ran

 

 

That's rank and file?? :) :) :)

That trumps my best jobs hand down :cry2:

 

But back to the tutorial, very nice, makes the steps clear and easy to follow, always hated tutorials that say, "now we highlight" but never really walk you though.

 

Thanks

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That's rank and file??   

That trumps my best jobs hand down

 

Possibly, but then my legal-FO, sizeable armies are few and far between. :)

 

I believe it comes down to what you think is important.

 

I don't tend to game anymore, so there's no pressure to have minis/units ready for use. As a result, I can really focus on improving my painting techniques. (Conversely, I don't like owning miniatures that aren't painted to my current standard,... :) )

 

-Ran

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I was using a method somewhat similar that I got from BigJim's tutorial.

 

Take Bestial brown and base coat the eagle, then apply chestnut ink directly from the bottle onto it. This makes the eagle very dark and, uh nutty? Then build up layers on top of that. I am pretty happy with that method, however I only like it for when I am not going up to white. This is a beautiful method that I will use on my deathwatch, I think.

 

Thank you for posting this.

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I can just see Desmodus going for his bookmark button right now.  :)

Not me, I'm the one who taught Ran everything in the first place. Or something like that, ahem. :)

 

I say this should get a sticky, so I can look back if I ever need to do a bone chest plate.

Will do, as soon as it has moved on to page two.

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I was using a method somewhat similar that I got from BigJim's tutorial.

 

Take Bestial brown and base coat the eagle, then apply chestnut ink directly from the bottle onto it. This makes the eagle very dark and, uh nutty? Then build up layers on top of that. I am pretty happy with that method, however I only like it for when I am not going up to white. This is a beautiful method that I will use on my deathwatch, I think.

 

Thank you for posting this.

 

Hmm, I never posted that tutorial on B&C, just out of interest did you notice it on Portent or Dycom?

 

 

Lovely work Ranulf, fantastic painting & really nicely presented as well, the photographs are a good touch & well thought out.

I'm mildley surprised, looking at the finished product that you don't use inks, personally I'm not sure how I'd ever survive without 'em! :)

 

Anyway - really, really, nicely done; I just wish I'd have seen a few articals like this a few years ago. :)

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Not me, I'm the one who taught Ran everything in the first place. Or something like that, ahem.  :)
You're a mentor to us all... :)

 

Really nice step-by-step. This can also work for a lot of other collours, like grey (fortress as base, codex/black as shading an fortress + white for highlights. For a somewhat different (order) bone look, use Kommande Khaki instead of Bleached bone and Graveyard Earth instead of Bestial Brown..

 

John T

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Do you already have an army finished of those guys? (i saw your chaplain some while gao)

 

Sadly, no. :)

 

At the moment they number six in total. (Chaplain and 5-man Tac-squad)

 

It looks nice, but the first stages aren't strictly neccessary. Just use snakebite leather as a basecoat, then move on to stage four.

 

I've found to acheive the right result they're very necessary, but each to their own.

 

The undercoat helps to define exactly where the eagle meets the black armour, while the basecoat and (Bestial Brown) wash makes the job of layering much easier. (Not to mention more precise for those painters with shaky hands - like me!)

 

Great tutorial, did you paint the helmet in the same manner.

 

The Helmet was painted a little differently.

 

Basically it involved lots of watered down layers, (Bleached Bone) multiple highlights (up to Skull White) and shading with Graveyard Earth.

 

Not me, I'm the one who taught Ran everything in the first place. Or something like that, ahem.

 

Don't listen to a word he's saying - not one word! :)

 

 

...

 

 

Well,... ok,... maybe he did teach me a few things,... ;)

 

I'm mildley surprised, looking at the finished product that you don't use inks, personally I'm not sure how I'd ever survive without 'em!

 

Ran and inks don't tend to mix well, it's an oil and water kinda thing.

 

I tend to have horrible results with most inks, (glossy, patchy cover, pooling) so I try to use paint-based washes and glazes instead.

 

Love that Ultra Dread by the way Jim, beautiful work. :)

 

For a somewhat different (order) bone look, use Kommande Khaki instead of Bleached bone and Graveyard Earth instead of Bestial Brown..

 

Right on the money there John - my Chaplain uses the above colours for Bone. (Painted before I did these current marines)

 

Very good tutorial!Can we have a tutorial from the whole mini ?

 

Possibly, if I can find the time - though there's not much more to tell.

 

The Bone helmet might be worth a tutorial, but the remainer of the mini is really just highlighted black and metallics,...

 

-Ran

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As I'm putting together both Mortifactors and LotD forces, this will be invaluable and must be stickied!

 

I would second the request for a similar tutorial for the helmet and the armour - what did you use to highlight the black?

 

Seleucus

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Ran and inks don't tend to mix well, it's an oil and water kinda thing.

 

I tend to have horrible results with most inks, (glossy, patchy cover, pooling) so I try to use paint-based washes and glazes instead.

 

Hmm, I must admit I'm almost the complete opposite - when I try using paint based washes & glazes, I tend to get the pooling & dodgy finishes you mention from inks. :)

I do use them a lot on banners, but not so much on models.

 

I'll definately have to go back now & have another try with paint based washes though, going by the results you're getting, it's summat I ought to look into.

 

Love that Ultra Dread by the way Jim, beautiful work. :)

 

Cheers mate, kind of you to say. :)

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Now thats a very good tutorial. Im going to pick up the painting brush again soon as my current models suck ^_^ So this is a great help as I can see how to apply this method elsewhere :tu:

 

Loved the use of the coloured pics as that helps a lot

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