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DeathGuard Paintathalon


Big O

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All,

 

OK, after many weeks without any major updates, as well as some inspiration from "dipping" posts around the net, I decided to finally get my DG project off the ground.

 

I also have a baby on the way and 3 40k/WFB armies to be painted, so I figured I'd better get it in gear. This will be a daily update, DG paintathalon for an army of around 1700-2000 points.

 

Method:

Speed paint using my "modified dipping technique"

 

Completion Deadline: Aug1, 2005

 

 

I have a weeks worth of photos and work to update today, so I will break these into a few posts below. Pic heavy!

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WEEK 1 UPDATE

 

So the first step to any army is assembly. This is one of the parts I really enjoy as you have the freedom to convert and change as you see fit. Part of the reason I have so many armies to finish is due to the enjoyment I get out of putting models together.

 

Anyhoo, around a week and a half ago, the construction began. The current list looks something like this:

 

Chaos Lord - Reaper/PP

4x 7man sqds, Champs, icons and 2x assault weaps

1x 14man Plaguebearer sqd

1x 7base Nuglings

2x 7man Havok sqds, Champons, Icons, infiltrate, 4x assault weaps

Defiler

 

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45079420

 

Now at first glance, its' not necessarily the best list from an effective standpoint, but I am not putting the army together cause it kicks tail. I simply like the figs and Nurgle is the only 40k chaos army that has had any appeal to me. What can I say, I am a 16 year imperial player at heart.

 

Lots of simple, yet effective conversions in the list, including the lord, icon bearers and champs. Here are some pics:

 

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45079432

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45079433

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45079446

 

There will be some additonal green stuff work to some of the figs, but for the most part, Week 1 of the paintathalon has me with a fully assembled army.

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Please tell me more of this modified dip technique that you speak of. I'm assuming this is based off the minwax polyurathane stain dip style?

 

If so, I would be very interested, I have a large number of DG that I was looking to use this style on.

 

Thanks

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WEEK 1 UPDATE

 

So now that the army is assembled, its' time to begin the painting. I am a pretty fast painter as is, but I wanted to see if I could improve my speed even further using additonal techniques.

 

Lo and behold, I find out many people are using the "dipping" technique for armies such as nids, DG or other "earthy" theme armies with large figure counts. I will not go into the complete explanation of dipping, there are a multitude of better posts on the subject across the net. The ones I am refering to the most are on Dysartes (forum), Dakka (Modeling forum), HQ The Club and the Drunk Dwarves.

 

http://www.dysartes.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.p...der=asc&start=0

 

http://www.drunkdwarves.com/pages/artttgttcdipping.html

 

http://www.hqtheclub.org/content_dipping_challenge_4.html

 

 

Painting Recipe:

Prime white

Camo Green Basecoat, spray or paint on

"Wonderwash" black

Drybrush rotting flesh (or vallejo equiv. for all colors)

Paint trim/metal areas boltgun

Paint bolters terracotta

Paint bumps/pustules blood red or a light purple

Paint flesh light purple/lt grey

Chestnut ink "crud" painted in joints and other areas of the armor

MINWAX DIP

1 or 2 layers of highlights on some areas after dipping has dried

Paint the base and seal with Testor's Dullcoat

 

I am calling my technique "modified" dipping as I am going back after the dip and painting on some highlights by hand. I really like the look dipping gives to a DG or nid fig, but the transisitions and highlights are dulled way too much for my taste.

 

Light colors are critical to a successful dip, thus the white primer and lighter starting colors than I would use on a normal hand painted fig.

 

Here are some photos of the beginning paint stage, prime and basecoat on troop sqd 1 and primer for troop sqd 2:

 

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45079464

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45079431

 

More to come!

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WEEK 1 UPDATE

 

So now I have a sqd 90% basecoated and another one primed and sprayed camo green. this is going faster than I thought, I have only been priming/painting/dipping for around 6 hours and I am farther along than one sqd of my templars would be in 3-4 days. This rocks!

 

So what am I using to dip? The color most recommended on the various sites is Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut:

 

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45079440

 

The figs will come out VERY shiny after dipping, so make sure you get the satin version and not the gloss. For people outside the US, all of the sites I have mentioned also talk about other products you may be able to find in your local hardware or home store.

 

So what does a dipped DG fig look like? Here is a side by side pic comparing a partially basecoated fig with my test model:

 

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45079436

 

I personally like it. Not something I would use on 99% of armies, but great for the DG look. Of particular interest is the way it smooths the rough highlights caused by drybrushing.

 

 

Now, this fig does not have the "pop" from table eye level like a well painted and multiple highlight figure does.

 

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/38573278/medium

 

To solve that, my "modified" technique will come in. The fig on the right has no post-dipped highlights at all. After the whole sqd is dipped, I will go back and hit the metal, bolter casing, flesh and pusutles with a hand highlight. This will bring the "pop" back into the fig. Contrary to popular belief, you can paint over dipped or testors' dullcoat sealed figs. Some varnishes will not allow paint to adhere, but the minwax does not seem to have this problem. In the past, I have painted over dullcoat or krylon matte sealed figures as well with no problem.

 

Stay tuned, progress update tomorrow! I'll try to answer questions as the come up and thank for your interest!

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This is great !

 

What are the other version for UK ?

 

Those models look amazing!

 

P.T.W

 

 

Thanks! For the UK, I am not sure of the name, but the Dysartes thread has several Euro posters who are participating. One of them mentioned the following:

 

FROM DYSARTES: I use a pot of "Liberon Bistrol Lakk". This stuff is a polyurethane stain, with a silk matt finish. It can also be found in high gloss. The website for the producers is www.v33.com

 

I am really pleasently surprised by how the figs turn out after dipping. It will be interesting to see the final result after basing and the highlights. I may finish the test fig completely and include in the next day or 2's updates.

 

Please also note, the technique for dipping is explained completely in the other links I mentioned. I do not want anyone to think I am just dipping the fig in the can without prepping the product properly and shaking repeatedly until there are no runs in the varnish.

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For the bases, I will be going with a sand/debris base in brown.

 

Sqd 1 will be dipped this afternoon, basecoating was completed last night after I got back from the Astros game.

 

 

Shawn - Thanks!

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Lovely work. Glad to see more people are starting to use the Dipping Technique... I have to get off my ass and paint my 'Nids...

 

Well Congrats on the great looking minis

 

And thats my $0.02 Cdn

Josh

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WEEK 2 UPDATE

 

 

So now, we are current and the posts from here on out will be fairly real-time.

 

I was so excited about how the figs are coming along, I came home on my lunch today and worked on them some more. In less than and hour and 15min, I was able to do the following:

 

Touch up any missed spray on sqd 2:

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45128756/large

 

Dip the remainder of Sqd 1, who had their base colors finshed late last night.

Poor pic, sorry, they are fresh out of the dip:

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45128753/large

 

And now the best part, the "modified" dip completion of the test fig. 1-2 highlights were added to various portions of the figure.

 

Front:

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45128759/medium

 

Rear:

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45128760/medium

 

Compare to Dipped, no Higlights:

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45128992/medium

 

 

Here is the method for the highlights:

Bone/horns - Bleached Bone, Skull White

Armor - Rotted Flesh

Metal - Chainmail

Bolter Casing - 50/50 mix terracotta/Dwarf Flesh

 

As you can see, I kept the highlights very stark and of no more than 2 layers. The primary reson for this is to increase the speed (as outlined above), the other reason is that the predip drybrush and dip does much of the shading/highlighting for you.

 

Tonight, I'll try to finish the test fig's base and get to work on basecoating sqd 2 while sqd 1 dries from their bath.

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Today's updates:

 

- Completion of post dip highlights on sqd 1

- Completion of pre dip base coat on sqd 2

- Sqd 2 to be dipped this evening

- Completion of primer and Camo Green basecoat on sqd 3

- Sqd 3 to begin basecoat this evening

 

 

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45210565

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45210566

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45210572

http://www.pbase.com/bigo/image/45210580/large

 

Bases are left unfinished at this point, I am still tinkering with a couple of ideas. I have a ton of epicast bases in my closet I might use.

 

Thanks!

Jason

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  • 2 weeks later...

I give it the deathguard.org seal of approval!!

 

OK, thats not worth much.

 

The models look great, very effective method that saves time and looks great; hard to argue with that.

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