sbarnby71

You can always just bling your dreds, here's one I did a few years back, he was never meant to be Bjorn, but there is a lot of nice flat plates to work with on the Redemptor.

I agree the Levithan is more rounded. One option might be to make some green-stuff moulds from the Panels you want and before they're full cure, superglue them to the Levithan, this should allow you to create a bit of a curve that might be enough. Or take a mould just of the detail from the panels and use that so it's more like a raised details you get on a shoulder pad.

Don't mind at all and damn my boy looks good! And agreed it's good fun, but I have friends who are digital artists and have been seeing their work ripped off by AI for a number of years without any recognition or payment.

I would not be surprised if it was a paddle you use to get pizzas out of an oven with!

Copilot has it in for me, I tried a different Space Wolf and it created this!

Speak to Dragoon Gaming https://dragoongaming.co.uk/ They have done some custom work for me and prints are amazing quality and they should be pretty switched on about licensing and what they can/can't print. Also checkout https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CTMiniaturesUK They have also done custom work for me and even adjusted some designs (removed hands from axes, removed axe-heads from handles and added holes to accommodate pinning). I would say Dragoon print at a higher definition, they have up-scaled weapons to JoyToy size and the print quality was stunning.

Whatever one you get, practice on some spare plastic so you get used to the speed and also be aware that as others have said it can melt the plastic, so do short contacts with the tip so you don't overheat and melt the plastic, if you do the tip gets coated in plastic goo that goes hard pretty quick.

This is the one I got 5+ years ago for about £20, I use it all the time

In my experience you don't need super fast. I have a plug in one and I tend to use it on setting 1 of 5, I also have a rechargeable one that is like a pen and that is just fine for small detail work. Go for one that has variable speed and a lot of attachments and try and get something as small as possible so it's easy to use - also you don't need Dremel branded, the cheap ones are fine enough around the £20 mark.

Well Copilot did a cracking job with my mini when I asked for GrimDark!

TiTH: SW Head-Taker. Removed the knife and added a belt from the old SW kit. Added some extra rune stones. Primal Hounds chest decorations and removed the small wolf skull from the chest plate. Halberd from the AOS Chaos Warriors. Severed heads from the AOS Chaos Warriors (he is a Head-Taker!). Used the cape and back from a AOS Chaos Warrior and added some rough fur. The shield on the cape had 9 pointed star of Chaos, so removed that. Added a Daemon skull with a ball-bearing and some picture frame wire to show it being bolted in place. Helmet is a Hersey Era 3d print I got ages ago (will need to adjust the neck).

Got hold of a duplicate body of the first Head-Taker on ebay for cheap, so I wanted to make him as different as possible. Removed the knife and added a belt from the old SW kit. Added some extra rune stones. Primal Hounds chest decorations and removed the small wolf skull from the chest plate. Halberd from the AOS Chaos Warriors. Severed heads from the AOS Choas Warriors (he is a Head-Taker!). Used the cape and back from a AOS Chaos Warrior and added some rough fur. The shield on the cape had 8 pointed star of Chaos, so removed that Added a Daemon skull with a ball-bearing and some picture frame wire to show it being bolted in place. Helmet is a Hersey Era 3d print I got ages ago (will need to adjust the neck).

Has anyone seen any sneak previews of the new Terminator sprues? I'm ordering a set tomorrow but I'm keen to see what extras we might get on the sprues.

Then for me, I would do gloss varnish on the piece the decal is going on, so if it's a shoulder-pad, cover the whole pad area, then apply the decal, then matt varnish. The reason I do the whole bit with gloss and not just the spot the decal is being applied to is matt varnish covers the shine, but you can sometimes still see a shine from the edge of the decal, so the gloss helps create an even shine, that the matt then tones down. I have had on some models a case where the shiny edge of the decal almost gets locked into the matt varnish and no matter how many layers of matt you apply, the shine still is visible, so I use the gloss first and then you get an even shine, not just the decal edges standing out. Micro Sol and Micro Set can help get rid of that shiny edge on some decals, but I would still always use the gloss and matt varnish as well. As others have corrected me on the matt being less hard-wearing, just go for a matt coat,, a few thin coats will be best. I use a matt varnish during painting when I'm using certain colours (Mephiston Red is the worst) as I find they don't stand up to being handled whilst painting so I see the raised edges of models losing colour, so I apply my red, then apply a matt varnish on it so it won't rub off as I'm working.

Just looked into the Windsor & Newton varnish and I used to use it back when I was an art student about 37 years ago, never tried it on Models, I must admit I would probably not use that as it's really designed for paintings - yeah I know painted models are paintings, but if you can I would go for something designed for models. Even a 17ml Vallejo bottle when thinned will last a very long time. One question, what is your goal for the Matt varnish? Are you looking to protect the model or maybe remove the shine from it (various paints and washes can leave a model with different degrees of shine)? Matt varnish is not very hard-wearing compared to gloss, so if you're going for protection, a lot of folks use Gloss (high protection), then Matt to remove the shine. Me personally I only paint for display so my models don't get handled, so a thin Matt coat is fine to just give a consistent flat finish and reduce the shine. I sometimes use GW Lahmian Medium to achieve the flat finish - but I have had some issue with tiny crystals of mixture or pigment in that which shows up as small white dots, mostly you can't see it, but when you take a really detailed picture they can show up and ruin a nice paint job - could be my pot is getting old and clumpy.