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Vosogoth Dynasty


Tyriks

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Keep up with the momentum! I've been torn with my Deathmarks specifically (not that I'm doing anything painting wise that is) whether to keep them with my old scheme or use them to test out the new Contrast scheme I've been developing (or even to give them a bit of a unique scheme to show their separation from the Dynasty). Your army here has been a large influence on my decision to move to Contrast with how good those colours look over silver and how many dang models you crank out whenever you get a chance. I'm over here painting one model in a month going "good job, man" :biggrin.: :sweat:

Somehow missed the responses here, sorry guys.  If you try out metallic Contrasts, I recommend not using Leadbelcher as a base - it's so dark not much shows through.  Although some colors are very different so maybe it'd work?  I don't know, I guess test it out on an unimportant miniature

 

SpSHAhU.jpg

I painted up ten Lychguard with scythes over the weekend.  I still need to seal them and then base them.  

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  • 4 weeks later...

Szeras turned out a lot better than I expected. Need to take a better pic, I was playing around with settings on the camera and light box too much and camera battery died

 

aPM9tLQ.jpg

 

also I didn't use the energy beam bit because I couldn't decide what color to make it

Edited by Nemesor Tyriks
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Good job on the Cryptek.

 

The Tomb Sentinel is well-modeled, but why is only its body's front half coated in metallic paint? To show how wear-and-tear from tunneling, eroded the gray-white paint (seen on the rear half) that once covered the Tomb Sentinel's entire body?

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It actually is silver, just glare from the light box

I'm not sure yet the best way to take pictures with it, less light makes the purple look black but more light makes the metallic look white

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  • 1 month later...

I was reorganizing. Decided to take a pic of everything I've painted since Contrast paints came out.

 

u7KKpNv.jpg

 

Edit : every Necron, that is

 

Edit again : minus my still broken Tesseract Vault, haha

Edited by Nemesor Tyriks
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I have been playing with my light box and camera settings, trying to get better pictures. I think I'm on the right track. It's still hard to get no shadows without having too much light/reflection. Might need more background light or something. But here are the HQs from Indomitus :

 

Khulu Koth-ukala, the Star-Blessed, Lord of the Inescapable Maze, the Slayer of the Unknown God. Khulu was originally a Lord serving under Phaeron Eternokh, but has always been an ardent supporter who has gone out of his way to execute Eternokh's will. As such he has been consistently rewarded with promotions to the point where many other Lords and Overlords despise him. However, none dare to openly oppose him because he is fond of putting his Glaive to good use.

yROHssq.jpg

 

Aorekh Ghatanoth, Herald of the Maze

bAOOQDw.jpg

 

Atahr Basatan, the Darkness in the Deep, Dream-Haunter. Formerly an Overlord of the Moaglith Dynasty, he awoke with an insatiable itch. He destroyed his own body over and over trying to scratch his itch, and soon turned on his subordinates. He realized too late that only tearing apart the living could soothe his senses. The Vosogoth Dynasty offered him a new body and chances to scratch that itch in exchange for loyalty.

yzLWKwP.jpg

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Great work here Tyriks!,

I love the “Necron” themed shelf you have ;-) and are you a dice lover like me?..I counted 6 different dice blocks up there on top !!

The new models look great in your dynasties colours !!

Cheers, Mithril

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I do like having a set of dice for each army and I change my paint schemes constantly when I start new projects so I always wind up with extra dice. I like having variety available though and most games we play are here so it always helps to have more!
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  • 1 month later...
I, for some reason, decided to redo the bases for my entire Necron army. I kept having chunks of the Martian stuff break off and I got tired of trying to fix it all the time. I had found some Vallejo diorama texture paint that was much easier to put on and was much hardier so I'm doing that. I like the look of the new stuff a LOT more. I'll get pictures up when I get the chance but my hobby space is kind of a mess from dragging everything down to my garage every week for games
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not gonna be the best pics but I'm getting minor surgery tomorrow so I probably won't be very able/willing to post for a few days, I will take better pics afterwards

R9hRtTH.jpg

I'm also hitting all blades with this brighter purple metallic to make them pop a little more. so far it's just blades but I might pick out guns a little too

3iIMuFo.jpg

v27QxN7.jpg

the bases are Vallejo black lava with a drybrush of grey seer over it. goes on super quick and easy, it's the first basing material I don't really hate to work with and it was like half a pound of it for like $2 (US) more than GW texture paints so much cheaper

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That black lava stuff really does look good, still a scoop/spread product? Something I absolutely hate about GWs stuff is that it uses microscopic plastic bits that are insanely bad for the environment should they end up in the water system. Honestly anything else would be better.

What purple is that you're using on the blades? I'm really digging how much more they stand out now.

 

EDIT: Rewind, minor surgery? Hope everything's good and recovery is swift pal.

Edited by NTaW
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That black lava stuff really does look good, still a scoop/spread product? Something I absolutely hate about GWs stuff is that it uses microscopic plastic bits that are insanely bad for the environment should they end up in the water system. Honestly anything else would be better.

What purple is that you're using on the blades? I'm really digging how much more they stand out now.

 

EDIT: Rewind, minor surgery? Hope everything's good and recovery is swift pal.

I can't tell if this has microbeads. It has something in it for texture but it feels grittier than microbeads so it might just be sand. I can't find confirmation either way, though. But there's no crackle medium and the material is less sticky overall (if that makes sense) so it goes on a lot easier with the spatula thing GW makes. I felt like with GW texture paints it always sticks to itself or the "brush" and won't spread very easily but this is more like Elmer's glue in consistency, so it spreads great.

 

Surgery was just to correct my vision, so aside from struggling to focus on small details (like painting miniatures or reading, unfortunately) I'm essentially done recovering already. Thanks for the well wishes!

 

The purple is from turbo dorks, I'll have to look up the name real quick

Edit: People Eater: https://turbodork.com/products/people-eater-metallic-acrylic-paint

Edited by Nemesor Tyriks
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I can't tell if this has microbeads. It has something in it for texture but it feels grittier than microbeads so it might just be sand. I can't find confirmation either way, though. But there's no crackle medium and the material is less sticky overall (if that makes sense) so it goes on a lot easier with the spatula thing GW makes. I felt like with GW texture paints it always sticks to itself or the "brush" and won't spread very easily but this is more like Elmer's glue in consistency, so it spreads great.

 

Surgery was just to correct my vision, so aside from struggling to focus on small details (like painting miniatures or reading, unfortunately) I'm essentially done recovering already. Thanks for the well wishes!

 

The purple is from turbo dorks, I'll have to look up the name real quick

Edit: People Eater: https://turbodork.com/products/people-eater-metallic-acrylic-paint

Glad to hear it was a fast success of an operation, hopefully you're back to non-squinting status soon! :tu:

 

What's the GW spatula made of? Weird that it sticks. Either way awesome the new stuff goes on easier, I'm going to have to look more at Vallejo's textured stuff.

 

Turbo Dorks is an amazing name, I only just saw a local shop ask in a group about interest in the line since it's apparently very hard to get in Canada. Those are some vibrant colours!

Edited by NTaW
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  • 3 weeks later...

So, I've been thinking, and I feel like I might need/want to tweak my Dynasty's backstory since the Silent King is back. A brief recap (I'm honestly not sure how much of this I've actually posted here so this might not be a recap at all) was: my Phaeron had a minor connection to the Silent King and viewed his departure as an abdication, and proclaimed himself the next Silent King through some technicality. He's also paranoid about being hunted by the C'tan that he fought in the uprising, which he now doesn't know if it is alive or dead, free or chained. So he was going to be obsessed with upgrading his body with C'tan shards or other tech to make himself capable of surviving a fight with the C'tan.

 

So, my first inclination was to convert Szarekh's model to be my Phaeron. But I have him mostly built now and I don't think any changes I make will look nearly as good as the real deal. Plus, I really want to play Crusade and I want it to be My Dude leading the Crusade, and that just won't work with the Silent King.

 

So, I'm torn between keeping my backstory and just painting Szarekh in my colors, or making minor modifications (I was planning on leaving the two Phaerons off to use as Overlords and just put two Lychguard or Praetorians beside him), or saying it is Szarekh but wrong colors for no reason and go with my original plan of converting my Phaeron out of a character and some Triarch Stalker legs to look like some experiment gone wrong and running it as a CCB (which could then lead my Crusade). Or I could just shift focus away from my Phaeron and make a Nemesor to be My Dude.

 

My indecision here has somewhat stalled my hobby progress as I want to get the Silent King finished but I just don't know how to progress. What would you guys do?

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  • 2 years later...

So I really let this thread fall by the wayside... oops!  I will have to take some pictures of my painted stuff nowadays.  Still lots to paint but I have enough painted that I have been playing 10th by just pulling finished models out of the case until I hit 2000pts.  My last game I brought my old school monolith, and found it not too bad (probably due to a lack of really high S weaponry from my opponent, I don't think he had anything above S12) so I decided to finish my new Monolith that has been in pieces for years now.  I think I was a lot closer to finishing it than I realized when I took a break from the hobby; it only took me an hour or two to finish it up.  This model is such an improvement over the old, but the old one still holds up pretty well, in my opinion. 

 

20230704_1020482.thumb.jpg.b31b217b43a6d273818604e87012f039.jpg

 

I need to take an inventory of everything left to paint or that needs rebased or has issues that need fixing.  I have I think 40 or 50 new Warriors fully painted but with small magnets on the bases for transport, but I used ones that are too strong and they keep jumping onto each other during play so that might be my first project.  I think I need to pry all the magnets off and replace them.  Now I have those self-adhering ones that are the right size to just fit on the base, so replacing them won't be hard, but removing them will be a pain.

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Oooh fancy Monolith! I feel like that's one of the few units I'd still like to add to my collection, whether I fix my old busted one up or find a used one with all its parts.

 

Something you could consider for base magnets is that the tray they're on top of could be the magnet, then all you need is a penny/nickel/washer glued into the base for it to stick in transport. You may end up with weighted models that slide less on terrain and eliminate your on-table magnetic attraction.

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I do actually have really good magnets already. I just found them after I glued the overly strong ones on my Necrons. The problem is removing the old ones. I don't want to soak them because they're fully painted and based, but I can't get good leverage without damaging the bases. I'm going to try very carefully putting some isopropyl on them while holding them upside down somehow so it has time to erode it.

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