Blackcat Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi! I'm working on a new project - I've bought dozens of SW boxes and I've decided to make them as a part of Logan's company. It will be my first, fully painted army and I'm going to do it right :D I've also decided to go fluffy and start with some Blood Claws - there will be 14-15 of them (lead by WP and WG) + Land Raider. They will be an exception and I will include them to Ragnar's company. After Blood Claws I will handle: 2x10 squads of GH Drop Pod 5xWG Termies 3xTWC Bjorn, Logan and all other SW characters (I've managed to buy metal versions!) including Games Day Priest ^_^ I would like to also thank Adam (funkymunk123) as his tutorial was a great base to develop my own SW painting scheme ;) Link to the tutorial So please enjoy and leave the comments! I'm always curious what may be improved. Sorry for the pic quality but an iphone is not a good camera. I will use professional camera for next models. I've been using parts from SW battle force, old SW frames and a tactical squad to made these guys. GH will be created from SW bits only. I wanted to have a little more "raw" Blood Claws :D http://kociamber.pl/SW/BC1_HDR.jpg http://kociamber.pl/SW/BC2_HDR.jpg http://kociamber.pl/SW/BC_HDR.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max_Dammit Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 What an intro, thats one fine looking BC you have there (just dont know about that avatar :) ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt D Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 they are looking great. what color are you using for you crevasses? the brown looks really good next to the blue. BtW your bases are rockin' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackcat Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 What an intro, thats one fine looking BC you have there (just dont know about that avatar ;) ) thanks mate :D re avatar - yeah I know - I love both chapters and I can't do anything about it :) they are looking great. what color are you using for you crevasses? the brown looks really good next to the blue. BtW your bases are rockin' thanks ;) it's a mix of Vermin Brown, Gryphone Sepia and Vallejo Glaze Medium (1:1:1) - it has more orange flavor in live than on the photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GalaxyChief Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Holy friggin huge pictures bro! Nice looking wolves bud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freakiq Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Loving the wolf tail on the 2nd bloodclaw, recipe? Very nice work, feels a bit old-school. :cuss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forté Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Very nice. Very nice indeed. Now, if the DRESS WEARER in you allows it, here's an ale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackcat Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Loving the wolf tail on the 2nd bloodclaw, recipe? Very nice work, feels a bit old-school. :) it's supposed to be an old school :P the tail was a wet blend experiment: started with Scorched Brown, then Bestial Brown was then used to piсk out the fur, then Vomit Brown, Bleaсhed Bone, Skull White as final highlight for the tip. Then Gryphonne Sepia, followed by Ogryn Flesh wash (after everything has dried). Very nice. Very nice indeed. Now, if the DRESS WEARER in you allows it, here's an ale. believe me man - my dress wearer is a booze monstah ;] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khine Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Loving the wolf tail on the 2nd bloodclaw, recipe? Very nice work, feels a bit old-school. ;) it's supposed to be an old school :) the tail was a wet blend experiment: started with Scorched Brown, then Bestial Brown was then used to piсk out the fur, then Vomit Brown, Bleaсhed Bone, Skull White as final highlight for the tip. Then Gryphonne Sepia, followed by Ogryn Flesh wash (after everything has dried). Very nice. Very nice indeed. Now, if the DRESS WEARER in you allows it, here's an ale. believe me man - my dress wearer is a booze monstah ;] Oh .. so hes a wolf in dainty sheep's clothing? :o good to know .. go to know..-hands over a large turkey leg- That paint job really is looking impressive, always nice to see other people who enjoy fielding bloodclaws. I particularly like the face and chests. the only thing i would really fault you on is that on the first BC the highlighting of the flat side is a bit thick. a good example of what i mean is on the bolt pistol, the high light really contrasts with the black and doesn't actually take on a feeling that a light is shining on it. I would either try and working the flat so it builds up from the black to the really strong edged highlight, wither you want to do that with washes or painstakingly slow gradient mixes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Mjollner Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 These are looking good, expecting great things from you in the future... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackcat Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Oh .. so hes a wolf in dainty sheep's clothing? :P good to know .. go to know..-hands over a large turkey leg- Give me that thing! ;] That paint job really is looking impressive, always nice to see other people who enjoy fielding bloodclaws. I particularly like the face and chests. the only thing i would really fault you on is that on the first BC the highlighting of the flat side is a bit thick. a good example of what i mean is on the bolt pistol, the high light really contrasts with the black and doesn't actually take on a feeling that a light is shining on it. I would either try and working the flat so it builds up from the black to the really strong edged highlight, wither you want to do that with washes or painstakingly slow gradient mixes. Almost every single damn SW list contains dozens of copy-paste GHs - no BC at all. And I hate that. Regarding the highlights - thanks for the tip. I will try both - washes and gradient (I've just bought an airbrush ;)) To be honest I've painted maybe 20 full minis (DA marines) in my life.. so I still have plenty to learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wulfebane Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 (I've just bought an airbrush ) What'd you go with and how did you decide on it? I've been wanting one for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackcat Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 (I've just bought an airbrush ) What'd you go with and how did you decide on it? I've been wanting one for a while. Well.. I was always curious what can be achieved with that stuff. I've been watching a lot of AwesomePaintJob vids lately and I've decided to try it for myself. Now I'm learning how to handle the thing and I'm using it for basecoating/undercoating mostly (bought some Vallejo AIR paints and undercoats). But first pre-shading and lightening tests were very very promising. I've just started Drop Pod painting and it's amazing how fast and how clean the job is. Also I've painted my first power weapon 2 days ago (white-ice blue-ultramarines blue-black gradient) and it looks.. well.. freaking GREAT The trick is to prepare good, thinned down paint.. but it's exactly the same when you are painting with brush only. Both Blood Claws from the pictures above were painted with very thin paints (no airbrush this time - but next ones will be painted with airbrush help :)) Check out - the guy explains how to paint WG Termies and the power weapons with an airbrush. I don't like the way he picks up some colours (for basecoat or fur for example) but there are many nice things to learn from him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt D Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Loving the wolf tail on the 2nd bloodclaw, recipe? Very nice work, feels a bit old-school. ^_^ it's supposed to be an old school :) the tail was a wet blend experiment: started with Scorched Brown, then Bestial Brown was then used to piсk out the fur, then Vomit Brown, Bleaсhed Bone, Skull White as final highlight for the tip. Then Gryphonne Sepia, followed by Ogryn Flesh wash (after everything has dried). Very nice. Very nice indeed. Now, if the DRESS WEARER in you allows it, here's an ale. believe me man - my dress wearer is a booze monstah ;] Oh .. so hes a wolf in dainty sheep's clothing? :o good to know .. go to know..-hands over a large turkey leg- That paint job really is looking impressive, always nice to see other people who enjoy fielding bloodclaws. I particularly like the face and chests. the only thing i would really fault you on is that on the first BC the highlighting of the flat side is a bit thick. a good example of what i mean is on the bolt pistol, the high light really contrasts with the black and doesn't actually take on a feeling that a light is shining on it. I would either try and working the flat so it builds up from the black to the really strong edged highlight, wither you want to do that with washes or painstakingly slow gradient mixes. I think it is important here to remember that monks make Awesome beer! Oh .. so hes a wolf in dainty sheep's clothing? :o good to know .. go to know..-hands over a large turkey leg- Give me that thing! ;] That paint job really is looking impressive, always nice to see other people who enjoy fielding bloodclaws. I particularly like the face and chests. the only thing i would really fault you on is that on the first BC the highlighting of the flat side is a bit thick. a good example of what i mean is on the bolt pistol, the high light really contrasts with the black and doesn't actually take on a feeling that a light is shining on it. I would either try and working the flat so it builds up from the black to the really strong edged highlight, wither you want to do that with washes or painstakingly slow gradient mixes. Almost every single damn SW list contains dozens of copy-paste GHs - no BC at all. And I hate that. Regarding the highlights - thanks for the tip. I will try both - washes and gradient (I've just bought an airbrush :)) To be honest I've painted maybe 20 full minis (DA marines) in my life.. so I still have plenty to learn. i have found the same thing. my answer to this is to keep them simple. i put a 5 man pack with flamer with a WG w/fist, combi-flamer in a rasorback with heavy flamer. just run that bad boy up and watch the heretics burn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackcat Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 I've finished one of the Blood Claws and in order to protect the paint I did try to cover it with coat of Vallejo satin varnish. Never ever do that. When it dried whole model has been blended - color levels were toned down and it is not so "crunchy" anymore. DAMN IT. I will try to bring it back to live with gloss varnish.. Like I've said.. I do not have great experience with painting minis so far! In the meantime I did prepare WG (or GH) with power weapon from nice old sergeant model. I had to cut off old and ugly sword and replace it with decent runic blade ;) It's my first "serious" conversion anyway ;) I will cover him with Grey Primer in next few minutes (airbrush) and then make gradient PW :) I would like to also ask for your advice - shall I give him boltgun or plasma pistol? Which one will be better choice? Do you often use plasma pistols? ..and I hope you will appreciate my new avatar much more than previous one! ;D http://kociamber.pl/SW/FB.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tekneek Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Oh wow those look amazing, if you dont mind me asking how did you get the yellow to look so good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackcat Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 if you dont mind me asking how did you get the yellow to look so good? On first model (without helmet) it was simple Bubonic Brown over Iyanden Darksun (painted with brush and several thin coats of paint).. on all other shoulder pads I did put several coats of Bubonic Brown with an airbrush directly on the white undercoat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackcat Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 After covering old metal model with Grey Primer (Vallejo AIR 71.097) I left it for a while (30-40 min) to dry. Then I've started black pre-shading and the sword gradient BUT I've noticed that the primer is very easy to remove and I can see metal on the raised areas. It is being wiped off after gentle touch of a tissue.. :lol:? I did paint the model with primer again and left to dry for a longer while again. And then it's the same again. What could go wrong? I did wash miniature before coating it with paint.. See enclosed picture. Is there a way to do it right?? http://kociamber.pl/SW/GH2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 You are far better using a aerosol spray primer when priming metal due to the drying and matting agents contained. While a little expensive you can go far wrong with the GW primers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 (I've just bought an airbrush ) What'd you go with and how did you decide on it? I've been wanting one for a while. You can't go far wrong with an Iwata airbrush. Make sure you spend as much as you can afford don't scrimp and save and you will get fantastice results. However, if you are only going to use it for priming and laying off you can go cheaper. Try and get a compressor with a storage tank as it delivers a constent supply of air and will miminise pressure drop. As an added bonus it won't be constantly running, I find this helps to stop the wife complaining about the noise. An in-line moisture trap is a must if you live in an area where humidity is a problem and always strain GW paints after thinning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackcat Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 I will not buy Iwata as they have strange politics and prices are 50% in Europe than every where else. I've just bought (few hours ago) Paasche Talon and I think it will handle the job reaaaaaly good. So far I was playing with Adler 7704 but it's a crap and I've broke it quite fast (fixed it but it's still a crap) and I was using it for undercoating, pre-shading and power weapons. I will try highlighting with Paasche now :cuss And indeed - I've got storage tank compressor for modellers. It's also Addler (AD4000) but it was far more expensive than Adler's airbrush and it's not so crappy.. in fact it works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I will not buy Iwata as they have strange politics and prices are 50% in Europe than every where else. I've just bought (few hours ago) Paasche Talon and I think it will handle the job reaaaaaly good. So far I was playing with Adler 7704 but it's a crap and I've broke it quite fast (fixed it but it's still a crap) and I was using it for undercoating, pre-shading and power weapons. I will try highlighting with Paasche now ;) And indeed - I've got storage tank compressor for modellers. It's also Addler (AD4000) but it was far more expensive than Adler's airbrush and it's not so crappy.. in fact it works great. The iwata pricing can be funny but you can get a very good deal if you shop around, even in Europe. I have broke a few cheaper air brushes. Buy cheap, buy twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkMark Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Vallejo's grey primer generally requires at least 2 coats, and it should be remembered that metal chips very easily regardless. Its one of those plastic is better arguments, as the plastic bonds well with the primer meaning less chance of chipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackcat Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 I've solved my chipping issue by using Army Painter Wolves Grey primer.. it has amazing coating abilities! I've just also finished my 3rd Blood Claw and I'm working on the basing now. I'm experimenting with Vallejo Still Water in order to create ice effect on the base.. pictures soon! Enjoy! http://kociamber.pl/SW/IMG_1060.jpg http://kociamber.pl/SW/IMG_1064.jpg http://kociamber.pl/SW/IMG_1066.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackcat Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 It's taking longer than I expected (no time for painting at all) but I've managed to finish my experimental bases :D I was trying Citadex Texture (Mourn Mountain Snow), Vallejo Still Water and Vallejo pigments (white and brown). What do you think about them? Does it look decent enough? Or should I change something? http://kociamber.pl/SW/IMG_1070.jpg http://kociamber.pl/SW/IMG_1072.jpg http://kociamber.pl/SW/IMG_1074.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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