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XIth: Wardens of Light - Destined to be forgotten


MikhalLeNoir
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While I think that he's looking really good I think that with the truescale resize the power fist looks a bit small now and should also be bulked. And yes please, a tutorial on how to do this would be awesome!

 

I think that is a thing of personal taste. I lenghten the upper arm a bit so that it is anatomical correct, but the Powerfist i leave alone ( I am lazy) and imho I like the less bulky look. Same reason I don't use Terminator arms on my truscale marine.^^

 

 

Seeing him on a base with arms attached really shows how huge he is! Looking forward to the guide!

 

Hehe, to be honest he is on a 32mm base, because i couldn't find a 40mm asap^^

 

 

So enough talk, here comes the tutorial!!!! *okay, the first part as there are many. I try to keep it as simple as possible but it is my first ever tutorial, so if you have ideas to speed it up or explain it better, please be my guests.

 

Tartaros Terminator Truscale Tutorial

 

Step 1: Preparation

 

Get your tools ready

 

Your Items of war:

 

862436_sm-.jpg

 

862475_sm-.jpg

So many cute colours. Perfect for any Warden of Light

 

- Glue

- Cutter

- Saw

- Green Stuff

- Plastic Card 0,2 -0,25 mm

- Exacto Knife

- Plastic Card 0,1 mm (optional)

- Nail Art Rivets (optional although you will love them)

- Blue Tac

- Parts for a Tartaros Terminator

- Sandpaper

- Clayshaper and Sculpting Tools for details

- Patience

 

Step 2: Posing

 

  • Afters removing mould lines, you should roughly pose the terminator with the blutac because in the next step you have to glue the head in place and you should have his endpose in mind.

 

PART 1: Upper Body

 

Step 3: Assembling

 

  • Glue the upper body parts into place. (Don't forget to glue the head, happens to me all the time, because of this I had to restart and damage the model a bit, well....battle damage is always cool)

 

Step 4: Cut away those knobbly joints.

 

  • With the exacto knife remove those knobs from the upper bodies side. don't cut yourself.

 

862441_sm-.jpg

 

  • Don't forget the other side

 

862440_sm-.jpg

 

Step 5: We hate thin people. Broaden the termi with plastic card

 

  • You could do it the exact way: put the upper body on the 0,25 mm plastic card and paint the shape on it, then cut it out with the exacto knife.
  • or do it the easy way: Take the cutter and cut roughly rectangular forms from the plastic card, so that they are bigger than the body.

 

862442_sm-.jpg

 

  • Now glue them onto the body

 

It should look like this:

 

862443_sm-.jpg

 

Step 6: Get in shape!!!

 

  • Now take the clipper and cut it roughly down, then the exacto knife to get the shape close to the upper body,

 

862444_sm-.jpg

 

  • And finally sand it down, so that it looks like the armor was always in that shape and thickness. (Attention please: The torso is curved, so take this into account)

 

862445_sm-.jpg (Yuk, should have cut my fingernails...)

 

https://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/862447-.html'>[862447_sm-.jpg/url]

 

 

862446_sm-.jpg (Should look left and right the same)

Edited by MikhalLeNoir
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Step 7: Cut deeper

 

The next is an easy cut, but remember: Don't cut yourself.

 

  • If you look down on the model you see where the armorplates are seperated.
  • Just cut on the top, side and front with your knife to lengthen the line and continue it.
  • Wiggle the knfe around or make a cut less than a mm parallel to the first one so that you have a broader line there.

 

862449_sm-.jpg

 

Step 8: Green Stuff Action

 

The next step involves green stuff. And is the most difficult until yet. I Use always a 50:50 mix of green and yellow, but that is my personal taste. I wanna try a mix with Milliput, as I heard, that sanding down will be easier. However, i never had any kind of problems with my mix, patience is the key.

 

  • Take a good amount of GS (50:50 mix) and spread it out with your fingers, so that you have about the shape you see in the photos.
  • You can wet your fingers so that they won't stick on the GS. However, we want the GS to stick on the model, so take care not to use too much water, or lese the GS becomes slippery and won't attach to your model -> BAD MOJO

 

862450_sm-.jpg

 

862453_sm-.jpg

 

  • I keep the torso in my hands, because i believe i have more control over it, but you can also fix it on a working bench and work from there.
  • After you reached the rough shape, take a clayshaper with a flat top and carefullly work on the surface.
  • The chest has a line sclupted on it, make sure to elongate it so it follows the broader torso.
  • Now you have to be patient. Wait about 40 min, so that the GS has set a bit and attached itself on the torso.
  • Then with lots of water (or saliva), I work again on the surface and smoothen it out. (At least on the underside of the torso, the rough parts you see on the side will be sanded down later)

 

862451_sm-.jpg

 

862452_sm-.jpg

 

  • This step is very important as you make the upper body longer and give it the right shape. so take your time and stay patient. Working with Green Stuff will not be good if you hasten things. It took a while for my to get used to it.

 

 

Step 9: The powerplant is to short....We change that.

 

Because we made the torso longer, the powerplant is now to short. You could sculpt an additional armor plate, but I came up with another idea (Thx Jokaero Weaponsmith for the inspiration^^)

 

  • Take the half of an MK3 backpack (those from the Prospero box)  and cut it into pieces.

 

862454_sm-.jpg

 

  • Keep the part with the fan. (Don't throw the other part away, it can be used on a different terminator as elongation of the power plant)

 

862455_sm-.jpg

 

  • And glue it with the cables looking upwards on the torso/powerplant.

 

862456_sm-.jpg

 

  • It should look now like this:

 

862457_sm-.jpg

 

 

This concludes the upper body part for the time beeing. Next part will focus on the legs.

Edited by MikhalLeNoir
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Part 2: Legs

 

Step 10: Recut the groin (and the shins and the upper legs)

 

We start here:

 

862459_sm-.jpg

 

You can cut the belt away, I left it as orientation point.

 

  • First, take the saw and make a vertical cut through the middle of the groin.

 

862461_sm-.jpg

 

  • Make sure you hit the middle, as it is important for the green stuff sculpting later.

 

  • After you cut the groin, make a horizontal cut through the shins

 

862460_sm-.jpg

 

  • And finally through the upper legs

 

862463_sm-.jpg

 

862462_sm-.jpg

 

  • However, this step is my approach. Maybe you want to amputate the legs before you cut the groin, there is no strict order, so cut the extremeties first which satisfies you^^.

 

 

Step 11: Add spacers

 

When you are finished cutting, you should end up with lots of different small parts.

 

  • Next take your 0,2mm-0,25 mm plastic card and cut round pieces out if it.
  • My approach is to cut smaller parts (about half the width of the leg part you are going to add it and fill the gaps with green stuff.)

 

862464_sm-.jpg

 

  • Of course you can add thicker shapes and cut them in shape with an exacto knife. I tend to cut myself, so i chose the safe way^^.

 

  • After you glued all spacers in place, you should have something which resembles this here:

 

862465_sm-.jpg

 

 

Step 12:  Fill the Gap

 

  • Now mix again Green Stuff in the ratio you can work best with and make saussages,
  • Those sausages are used to fill the gaps.
  • I recommend to take several layers and wait until they are hard enough before applying the next step. This gives a better result in the end.
  • The final layer should be smoothened out with the clayshaper with a flat top.

 

862466_sm-.jpg

 

Step 13: Add plates

 

  • After the gaps were filled and the green stuff cured, add plates to the butt and to the groin.
  • Take an extra green stuff  and make a sausage
  • Put it around the waist.
  • Flatten it with the flat clayshaper and smooth it out. This will be your belt.

 

862467_sm-.jpg

 

862468_sm-.jpg

 

  • I added additional rivets and made the groin a bit fancier,(You can do this by pushing small balls/rivets/bolts into the soft GS -> Watch out!! To much force can ruin the sculpt work)
  • However it is great if the groin and buttplate resemble this here

 

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RILibNaopFA/T3I1eac5JZI/AAAAAAAABYg/uF_N1n05-8s/s320/tart14.jpg

Edited by MikhalLeNoir
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Step 14: Never skip leg day.

It is time to add some bulk to the legs.

  • Take GS and spread it evenly on the armorplates of the upper legs. About 1mm thick.
  • Try to copy the shape of the underlying plates as best as possible and use a huge amount of water to smoothen it out.
  • First try the big plates and then when the GS has cured, go for the smaller hip plates.
  • If you want, you can press bolts into the soft GS to give the plates a more archaic look.

862469_sm-.jpg

  • Again, take your time. Can't say it too often, but you will be very disappointed if you have to start over because the legs look horrible. The Rock took his time to gain his enourmous upper legs and so should you. -> Never ever skip Leg Day

Step 15: Go for that extra height.

  • Take some Green Stuff and place it under both feet until the whe sole is covered with GS. It should be as thick as the spacers you recently used (0,2 mm - 0,25 mm).
  • Gently push the legs on a wet base and even the GS out.
  • Then wet your knife and cut off any excess.

862470_sm-.jpg


Step 16: More bulk for the legs and trims for the feet

862524_sm-.jpg

  • After you bulked out the outer plates and heighten the feet, take a small blurb of gs and spread it thinly.over the inner tigh to give it some bulk as well amd smooth it out afterwards.
  • Make 2 sausages and put them around the feet. Make sure to stick them onto the foot so that half of the height you added on the foot is covered.
  • Flatten the sausages with the flat clayshaper so that you get a nice trim.

Step 17: Clean up!

 

Get rid of those ugly parts and kill off any errors which still catches your eye.

862471_sm-.jpg

 

This concludes the leg part.

 

PART 3: Fusion

 

The next part involves the connection of the upper body and the lower body. Sadly I lost the pics in data hell, where I showed the separate steps, so i have to describe it as best as i can.

 

Step 18: More Spacers.

 

Now we add some hight in the midsection, so that the Terminator has more  than 1 rip^^

 

  • From the thick plastic card cut 3 pieces out, so that they will fit inside the torso.
  • Glue them onto the top of the legs.
  • Place the torso on it. if you like the position, then glue it in place.( As the inside of the torso is concarv in form, you can play around for more dynamic poses. I prefer a more upright position whereas terminators are normally in an awkward spine beaking bent position)
  • Now take a sausage of green stuff and once again place it around the plastic card -belly construction. Again, take your time.

 

862473_sm-.jpg

862474_sm-.jpg (don't be surprised, but i bulked the inner legs out AFTER I fused he body parts, which is just idiotic^^ But oh dear, the normal scale marine IS kinda dwarfish)

 

Step 19: ADD BULK TO THE WAIST

 

As we want a big bad terminator and not a zero sized ballerina, we are now adding an additional armorplate to the waist, which will stretch around the body.

  • Take again a sausage of GS and add it to the waist. I use an exacto knife to cut it in shape and the flat clayshaper to smoothen it and bring it in form. then again the wet knife until I am satisfied with the form.

 

862546_sm-.jpg

 

  • Finally I cut a shield out of the thin 0,1 mm plastic card and put it on the middle of the figure just under the chest.

 

862438_sm-.jpg

 

  • Now is a good time to sand down any parts you are not satisfied with, for example the sides of the toros (I know they look ugly....why didn't I sand them down earlier?)

 

Step 20: Final Step - Attach the Arms

 

The last steps involves the arm. We don't want our precious Tartaros look like this:

 

2317d09af5c0cd0f974e45c64f167683.jpg

 

  • As the arms seems a bit short compared to the body, I usually make 2 cuts. one on the lower, and one on the upper arm. but as this chap wears an autocannon and power fist, I only cut the upper arms. (You want to do this on normal arms, believe me)

 

862439_sm-.jpg

 

  • Use some GS to make the joints and place the arms as best as you can anatomically correct. So no shrugging here, sorry.
  • With the exactoknife you can add the grooves to the joints.

 

862545_sm-.jpg (HAH!!! Used Blutac to keep the armms in place, i am so evil)

 

  • Now wait until the GS cured and remove the arms, because painting is easier without them attached, but that is another thing. the tutorial is hereby finished^^
  • The "finished" Truscale Tartaros Terminator next to a truscale Marine

 

862547_sm-.jpg

 

 

 

CC is always welcomed. Remember, this is my first Tutorial, so I need your input to improve my next tutorials (cataphractii, mk1 terminator armor etc.)

 

And Yes, the whole thing works also with resin tartaros, even better as you don't have to glue the head right from the start. However, I would recommend a breathing mask, as there will be a lot of toxic dust due to the cutting and use of the saw.

Edited by MikhalLeNoir
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Oh man, first Cpt. Jack tutorial for truescaling mkIII and now this... Please stop it or I'll end up starting even another project! :P Great tutorial by the way, when I make a small truescale force (I've already accepted that this will happen at some point in the future) I will certainly search for this and use it!

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Thx mate, i hope it will help you. ATM I am layouting it and correct a few errors. Will add a link to the first post for easier access. And yes, go for it, truscale truscale truscale. Once you are infected, you can't escape anymore. I know what I speak of^^.

 

Edit: Phew...finished. Will have to adress the links on the pics, but that can wait for later

Edited by MikhalLeNoir
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Brilliant in depth tutorial Mikhal! I'm definitely going to try this out after I finish my small force of death guard (maybe i'll make it Wardens of Light too :wink:). The guy with the hooded sanguinary guard head looks interesting, planning to do anything with him soon? Or just a project from the pre-truescale era? Looking forward to seeing more!

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Thx man.

 

That guy was part of my fallen army I never finished. Even back then i was intrigued by masks^^

 

And wardens of light are always a welcomed sight

Edited by MikhalLeNoir
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  • 2 months later...

876997-Gwalchavad%20Botl%20XIIth%20Prima

 

It has been done. Togheter with Saint-Max the Primarch you all love amd admire has been redesigned a bit. Here we have him in Golden Armor shortly before the insurrection took place and took his toll on Gwalchavad.

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It has been done. After selling my kidneys and sacrificing my children I was able to Commission a primarch pic from saint-max ( noobovich) who also made pics from the canonprimarchs and Icarion, Alexandros and the female primarch whose name I can't remember ( mea maxima culpa)

 

We tried to blend the knightly and the south asian influences togheter and I for my part am now extremly happy. Sculptung him will now be my personal hell....^^

 

Oh..here is the pic

876975-lost%20Primarch.jpg

 

Gwalchavad, Primarch of the XIth Legion "The Wardens of Light" ready to enter the Great Crusade and bring peace to the galaxy.

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That would be "Mountain" armour, a type of armour originating in China consisting of interlocking metal plates resembling the character for mountain: 山. Hence the name. It's similar to chainmail or scale mail in that it's flexible, but here it appears to be decorative.

 

edit: And it would appear I was Ninja'd by Mikhal, you sneaky bastard.

Edited by drakzilla
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That would be "Mountain" armour, a type of armour originating in China consisting of interlocking metal plates resembling the character for mountain: 山. Hence the name. It's similar to chainmail or scale mail in that it's flexible, but here it appears to be decorative.

 

edit: And it would appear I was Ninja'd by Mikhal, you sneaky bastard.

But you delivered the superior explanation^^

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tumblr_ojodwvNgPs1qb272yo1_500.gif

That is truely something special Mikhal, strongly considering commissioning a piece of Nomus at some point in the future.

THX, you really should consider it.

Okay, considering my messenger is refusing to send anything at the moment I'll ask here, is it alright if I ask how much that masterpiece cost you?

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