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+++E Tenebrae Lux IV - Space Wolves Strategium+++


Captain Semper

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I'm still alive, and importantly, still making progress. Finished my Ulrik count-as, wolf priest, and wolf lord with Armor of Russ and Svellbrandr since my last update. You can see more in my blog: 

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/305064-stus-wips/page-2?do=findComment&comment=4108159

 

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Taking a few days with the family out of town so I think I'm all done with ETL this season. However I WILL be looking up the Gesso and Vallejo priming just to have some more options in my back pocket...

 

THANKS!

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I've been making slow but steady progress, and am working all through the upcoming holiday week and weekend. However, kids and wife will be visiting family for three or four days in there- so even with crazy work schedule I think I'm going to be finding much more hobby time shortly.
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Hail Brothers,

same here, still alive and painting away, despite all RL throws in my general direction. After all, being in CQC with multiple targets from all sides suits a son of Fenris just finemsn-wink.gif .

Without further ado, the last of Ragnar's Wolfguard and the first of my Shieldbrothers, the latter is pre-decal, I'll post him again with the next batch who are already underway:

TDA WG

TDA WG

TDA WG

And I'd like to thank you all brothers, for the great motivation I'm taking out of all your fine contributions to our cause.

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If I could take some motivation from you, Bulweih, something I've seemed to always have trouble with, and that you excel at, is straight symmetrical triangles. The small ones are even more difficult, and black on yellow is very unforgiving. I've tried different ways, dotting first, pencilling in lines, etcetera, but always seem to get wavy different sized zigzags that lack the crispness yours posses. How do you do it?
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I would suggest a coat of varnish so the tape doesnt lift the paint off, to start. Although I think it is more to do with how I work.

I put the tape on the intended area and using a pencil make an outline so I know how big an area to work with and where edges are etc

Draw the design on to the masking tape. If it is a thin design or large with many straight bits, wherer the tape could get tengled or whatever I will put the tape back on to the model and usig a very sharp blade cut it out while on the model (Which is where I sometimes get paint lift issues)

If it is wee like a square or triangel, I'll cut it out on a cutting mat and then apply to the model.

 

It is absolutely imperative to use a very sharp knife or you will tear rather than cut the masking tape and it will look messy

 

Paint away in nice thin coats, and do not go too heavy wit the paint. Unless airbrushing  and depending how many coats you do, you will notice a slight raised edge on the are you have painted, but that is cool.

 

To stop the paint bleeding under I use the flat back of my blade to ensure the tape is down securely, especially at the edges or stepped areas (shoulderpads for example).

 

Also don't over apply the paint.

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If I could take some motivation from you, Bulweih, something I've seemed to always have trouble with, and that you excel at, is straight symmetrical triangles. The small ones are even more difficult, and black on yellow is very unforgiving. I've tried different ways, dotting first, pencilling in lines, etcetera, but always seem to get wavy different sized zigzags that lack the crispness yours posses. How do you do it?

Hail brothers,

that's very kind of you to say brother, thanks.

Brother dantay_xv presented the most sensible option in my estimate, I even own "low-tac" masking tape that I bought way back when I started the army, yet I draw them by hand.

The cyclone launcher was a bit of a struggle as it was, first thing is to pick a good spotrolleyes.gif .

About the how is, I usually do the bright color first on knee pads and the like and then draw the black triangles in. On the cyclone I started with the yellow triangles, one on each side of every space to get their size and number right and then filled out the middle spaces accordingly.

The first line I draw is from the bottom left corner to the tip, then from the right, nevermind if the tips overlap a little. For those line to go slow is ok to get it right, yet they get wavy the slower the brush goes.

Little errors can be ignored till later.

When done with the outlines, fill out each triangle.

Then do the reverse triangles in black f.e., but those I draw from the tip to the bottom corners and usually after a few "test swings" to get my aim in. Those need to be done in a fast brush stroke fashion to get good edges, which should repair all wavy f.e. yellow outlines.

It takes practice, but there's no better army for itmsn-wink.gif .

Let me know if this is understandable and helpful.

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Well... I did it... I finally did it... 

 

...airbrush and compressor are in the mail, inbound on my location!  15 years of modeling and I can't think of a time that I've been more excited for something to arrive.  Hopefully I don't waste it!

 

-Sig

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OK guys, I think you are doing a great job and utilising the ETL to exchange ideas and techniques. I have to tell you, that's the core of this event - not only to paint your minis but to enhance your skill by interacting and exchanging tips and advice! Well done!

 

@ Sigmud_Ingthorn: I had accidentally marked you as complete last week... :o Well done mate - those dreads are top notch! 

 

UPDATED TO THIS POINT!

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Those 16 hour days and Holliday stuff make it hard to paint, but I'm still almost there! Bulweih, I think I get it, what's f.e. though? Sigmund, always wanted one- have fun. Captain, thanks for all your work organizing this- pretty soon I'm going to have an extra 1000 points of awesomeness that would have been sitting unpainted for much, much longer!
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Hey there,

 

Am i to late to join in on this?

 

I am Playing in a tournament of 500pts, and i am Starting from Scratch with a new Army. I know i am not giving myself much time, but it would give me extra incentive to build and have some of it painted but the 1st of Aug.

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Hey there,

 

Am i to late to join in on this?

 

I am Playing in a tournament of 500pts, and i am Starting from Scratch with a new Army. I know i am not giving myself much time, but it would give me extra incentive to build and have some of it painted but the 1st of Aug.

 

 

Hail brothers,

 

sorry brother Wee Haggis, we sure could have used your sword(brush) -arm in this, yet the doors for this year's ETL have closed forever at the 1st of June 2015, best prepare for next year's round.

 

 

@rgr_maddog: Glad to hear I was halfway understandable, f.e. was meant as "for example". If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

 

 

 

It was very, very hot these days, so I'm quite proud I did anything at all in the hobby department, another two Wolfguard done:

TDA WG

TDA WG

TDA WG

TDA WG

TDA WG

 
I hope you like them.
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Hey there,

 

Am i to late to join in on this?

 

I am Playing in a tournament of 500pts, and i am Starting from Scratch with a new Army. I know i am not giving myself much time, but it would give me extra incentive to build and have some of it painted but the 1st of Aug.

Ignore the skeptic ;)

 

You can join, and get badges and stuff as normal, but your points will not count towards a space wolf victory.

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Congratulations Donkalleone, a great completion indeed! That shield is beautiful as is the warpaint/tatoo on Donatar's face! I really like your style - vibrant colours, excellent brush control and beautiful bases. Well done sir! 

 

 

 

 

Hey there,

 

Am i to late to join in on this?

 

I am Playing in a tournament of 500pts, and i am Starting from Scratch with a new Army. I know i am not giving myself much time, but it would give me extra incentive to build and have some of it painted but the 1st of Aug.

 

Hi Wee Haggis,

 

As it was pointed out the doors to new participants were closed on June 1st. However (as it was also pointed out) you may still join with out-of-competition vows but the points of said vows will not be counted towards the SWs faction total.

 

Apart from that the out-of-competition vows are like normal vows in every respect i.e. you are still eligible for the winning badge if you make it  -the famous Custos Fidei - and of course dreaded Oathbreaker badge if you fail.

 

So if you can use some motivation this is still a good opportunity to do some painting! 


UPDATED TO THIS POINT!

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I Wee Haggis rise to the challenge of E TENEBRAE LUX and vow to complete 10 Grey Hunter Brothers with Rhiño transport from Codex Space Wolves on or before August 1st, 2015. Success will bring eternal glory to The Space Wolves and failure will doom me to bear the Badge of the Oathbreaker until the year-end

Picture of before up tomorrow :-), Thank you for letting me join in

 

DSC 0078

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Just finished my last 4 Skyclaws and got my Rune Priest ready to prime. My WGBL and his pack of Skyclaws

gallery_74843_8971_232068.jpg

Should have dusted the WGBL and first 3 Skyclaws as they've been sitting out awhile. For the Wulfen Stone on the WGBL I got a 3mm plastic red gem and glued it in the buckle for the jump pack straps. Best thing I came up with to match the Stone's description as a blood diamond (ruby I think it means)

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Generally speaking a blood diamond refers to an illegal diamond (usually from Africa) that was originally sourced through violent conflict. (A diamond paid for with blood.) However, I am not sure if in the year 40k, it will still be the same thing. By the way, nice dark scheme on those skyclaws.

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